$600,000 Minute Repeater Masterpiece Celebrates Parmigiani Fleurier Founder’s Birthday

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It comes as no surprise that master watchmaker Michel Parmigiani, founder of Parmigiani Fleurier, would celebrate his birthday with something horologically intense and decoratively outstanding. Les Roses Carrées is a collectors’ series of five minute repeaters with hand-engraved cases and grand feu enamel dials, priced at $600,000 each. At 42mm, it’s really a man’s watch, but it’s such a beauty – and with a rose motif engraving – that how could any woman could resist wearing it? Just think of it as a big bracelet, one with a prestigious mechanism inside.

The watch is, on the one hand, a paragon of traditional high watchmaking, with a cathedral minute repeater – the most esteemed of all the watchmaker’s tricks – and grand feu enameling on the case and dial, which is done in the flinqué style, with a layer of engraved gold visible under the slightly translucent layers of enamel. The elaborate engraving on the case side, lugs and bezel also represents an age-old watchmaking metiers, but here it is given a modern twist. The motif is a fairly angular, stylized rose, as opposed to the scrolling patterns, more life-like patterns found on the cases of most vintage pieces. The process of creating it is, however, no less intense or difficult. Each rose that surrounds the case is hand engraved in precisely the same pattern, a task that requires scrupulous and painstaking consistency.

The bright blue enamel – Parmigiani’s favorite color – is repeated on the hunter caseback. It is hinged so that it can be flipped back in order to admire the movement, which is openworked and decorated in the signature Parmigiani style, with 114 inward and outward angles that are deeply chamfered (angled and polished by hand). You can watch the hammer striking the gongs, which, in the cathedral style, extend one-and-a-half times around the perimeter of the movement, producing a deeper, richer sound than standard chimes, with a more sustained vibration. It strikes hours, quarters and minutes on demand, with a special mechanism that eliminates the delay between short hours and the quarter hours and minutes that follow. The manually wound caliber PF355 has a 72-hour (three-day) power reserve – one hour for every year of its creator’s existence. Michel Parmigiani celebrated his 72nd birthday on December 2.

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