Alessandra Rich is an elegant woman, always dressed in the prim frocks she designs for her eponymous label, which counts the Princess of Wales among its fans.
Despite that well-mannered association, Rich stages fantasies of a rather different kind in her collections. Her stiletto-heeled creatures teeter between femme fatale and naughty ingénue, shuttling from lady of the manor duties by day to officiating rituals à la Eyes Wide Shut by night. “Yes, there’s a noir vibe in my representation of women,” she conceded. “Fantasizing about a secret double-life is perhaps a way of rebelling against the taboos we as women have been forced to internalize.”
This season, Rich let her hair down, playing the conservative versus the risqué without much restraint. Bias-cut satin numbers fit for a 1930s star coexisted with nude lurex bras and micro panties from the lingerie line she’s about to launch. Elsewhere, underpinnings were barely concealed under a clear-latex microskirt pierced by metal studs, or worn unflinchingly on bare skin with low-slung black leather pants and a pair of long black patent leather gloves. “She’s never uncomfortable being undressed,” said Rich.
The message was in the mix: Proper pleated-skirt floral print midi dresses with broderie anglaise collarettes would pass muster at a formal garden reception, while the see-through impact of a black stretch-lace catsuit studded was just slightly mitigated by a zippered leather miniskirt not much wider than a belt.
Rich is curious about “secrets women hide in their minds,” she said. What she wants to offer them are tools to play the self-representation game as they please, without taking themselves too seriously. She called the collection “Please, disturb.”
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