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— Blackbird singing in the dead of night. Take these broken wings and learn to fly.
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These lyrics from the song Blackbird by The Beatles may be iconic thanks to the creative mind of Sir Paul McCartney, but there were deeper meanings behind them.
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According to McCartney, the inspiration for Blackbird acts as a two-fingered salute to those who oppressed African Americans and infringed on their civil rights. More specifically, the tale of the Little Rock Nine (Ernest Green, Elizabeth Eckford, Jefferson Thomas, Terrence Roberts, Carlotta Walls, Minnijean Brown, Gloria Ray, Thelma Mothershed and Melba Pattillo), a group of nine Black students who enrolled in 1957 at Central High School, at that time an all-white institution.
“I was sitting around with my acoustic guitar, and I’d heard about the civil rights troubles that were happening in the ’60s in Alabama, Mississippi, Little Rock in particular,” McCartney once told GQ magazine. “I just thought it would be really good if I could write something that if it ever reached any of the people going through those problems, it might give them a little bit of hope. So, I wrote ‘Blackbird.’”
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The story of the Little Rock Nine is a part of the city’s history and is memorialized at Central High Museum (nps.gov/chsc).
Park Ranger Randy Dotson is one of the guides at the museum. He provides a very emotionally charged walking tour, allowing visitors to retrace the steps of the students and what they felt as they were verbally and physically assaulted as they attended school.
“There are 300 white National Guard lined up. They’re on the sidewalk and they’re keeping a mob of about 800 in the street. They are mad,” Dotson told a group of visitors during a recent tour. “These white people do not want these Black kids here.”
Dotson’s tour can make people uncomfortable. He does that for a reason: To develop empathy with the visitors.
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“I do it that way because I had a lot of people with the wrong impressions (of the story),” Dotson told the Toronto Sun. “I want people to understand it. These stories are difficult. People want to glamourize it. I will tell you what really happened.
“It’s about telling difficult stories and telling them ethically.”
THE ROOTS OF ARKANSAS’ HISTORY
African American history is part of the fabric that makes up Arkansas. One of the best places to learn about it is at the Mosaic Templars Cultural Center (arkansasheritage.com/mosaic-templars-cultural-center/mtcc-home) which houses exhibits that promote and preserve Black history and culture in the state.
One of the current displays is The Arc of Justice: The Life and Legacy of S.A. Jones, who was a prominent lawyer in Little Rock in the late 1800s and early 1900s. The exhibit focuses on Jones’ work both in and out of the courtroom and his accomplishments in the justice system.
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Another Arkansas institution is Bill Clinton, the 42nd president of the United States. Located in Little Rock is the William J. Clinton Presidential Library and Museum (clintonlibrary.gov), a facility that acts as an interactive historical map of his presidency.
Featuring archival artifacts from Clinton’s time as president, walking through the museum will take you back to the 1990s and the worldly issues that transpired at the time.
The most popular attractions at the centre are replications of the White House’s cabinet room and Oval Office.
Opening in July, the United States Marshals Museum (usmmuseum.org) in Fort Smith, Ark. is an interactive walk through history of the federal law enforcement agency in the country. The museum features educational components as well as a large collection of artifacts from the archives. It’s a fascinating look into U.S. law enforcement and worth checking out.
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ARTISTIC HAVEN
With Southern hospitality comes Southern artistic expression. Arkansas is brimming with it, with many spots to check out while you’re visiting.
In Little Rock, one such spot is the Vogel Schwartz Sculpture Garden. Located at Riverfront Park, the garden utilizes landscape architecture to create a number of outdoor rooms that house more than 90 whimsical sculptures from local and American artists.
Also in Little Rock is the Arkansas Museum of Fine Arts (arkmfa.org), which is all about building and inspiring the community via art. The AMFA features a collection of more than 14,000 works that span eight centuries. It also boasts several exhibits and installations. And, best of all, admission is free.
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In the town of Fort Smith is its Regional Art Museum (fsram.org). Currently celebrating its 75th year, the feature exhibition is the RAM Invitational Odyssey, a selection of submitted work from invited artists with their unique interpretation of “Odyssey.”
RAM also hosts a permanent exhibition in the W.E. Knight Porcelain Gallery, which is the largest Boehm Porcelain collection in the state.
The main part of Eureka Springs has a number of art galleries for visitors to take in. Each features different works of local and international artists.
One can hop on the trolley from the Cresent Hotel and head to the downtown core to check out the Statton Gallery, Zarks Contemporary, Quicksilver Gallery and Wilson and Wilson Folk Art, where you can catch artist Blakeley Wilson painting live in person.
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If you venture to Bentonville and need a place to stay and also be inspired by art, then 21c Museum (21cmuseumhotels.com) is your one-stop shop for it all. The hotel is a 12,000-square-foot facility where art is seamlessly integrated into the accommodation. There is literally art around every corner.
While in town, be sure to venture over to the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art, which now features Diego Rivera’s America showcasing rarely seen works of artist Diego Rivera. The museum also has a self-guided tour of Frank Lloyd Wright’s home.
WHERE TO EAT
THE PANTRY WEST — One might not think about European food when visiting Little Rock. But after a visit to The Pantry (littlerockpantry.com), one won’t ever want to leave without being full.
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Founded in 2009 by Tomas Bohm, The Pantry offers the best of Czech and German cuisine, along with American favourites in a very diverse and tasty menu, all while dining in a venue that evokes European charm.
If you’re looking for an American classic, nothing is better than The Pantry Burger. If European is your flavour, you can’t go wrong with a Jaguar Schnitzel or a hearty goulash.
CIAO BACI — This place is a Little Rock institution.
New age infusion with southern charm, since 2001, Ciao Baci (ciaobacilr.com) has been the place to eat at for locals and visitors alike. Have a seat in the cozy dining room inside an historic bungalow and sample some Mediterranean- and European-inspired offerings, all made with locally grown ingredients.
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Favourites include the Tuna Poke Nicoise and Blackened Catfish.
ALLSOPP & CHAPPLE RESTAURANT + BAR — If you want to enjoy cocktail hour with hip style and class, then this is the place to be.
Located on East Main Street in the city’s downtown, Allsopp & Chapple (allsoppandchapple.com) boasts handcrafted cocktails complimented by a delicious menu of American cuisine all served and enjoyed in an historic building, retaining its original architecture and charm.
Highly recommend the short rib meatballs appetizer and Gouda Mac.
CONIFER — If you’re not a fan of gluten, this is the restaurant for you.
Conifer (coniferbentonville.com) in Bentonville boasts a 100% gluten-free menu with delicious offerings such as duck breast with spinach, cherry and walnut gremolata, or piri piri chicken.
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The menu is crafted by chef and owner Matthew Cooper, who believes in utilizing the best and freshest ingredients in each dish.
WHERE TO STAY
CAPITAL HOTEL — This hotel is Southern culture at its finest.
The tagline of southern comfortable is no lie when staying at the Capital Hotel (capitalhotel.com), which mixes luxurious accommodations with that classic southern charm and a little bit of history sprinkled in.
Whether it’s the classic decor, many amenities, or friendly staff, there’s no other place that will make you feel more welcomed.
CRESCENT HOTEL — A hotel with plenty of history surely has to be haunted, right?
The Crescent Hotel (crescent-hotel.com) in the city of Eureka Springs is a centuries-old accommodation that has plenty of character and tales that come with it.
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The hotel retains much of its original charm from when it was built in 1886, but it’s been said that it has also inherited some old souls who used to grace the grounds once upon a time. Those who want to explore the supernatural side of the 72-room hotel can partake in a ghost tour.
One of the selling points of the Crescent Hotel is its in-house spa and salon, which it boasts as the state’s symbol of hospitality.
GRADUATE FAYETTEVILLE — Being in the heart of downtown matters no matter where you’re staying.
The Graduate Fayetteville (graduatehotels.com/fayetteville) is a great accommodation to check into while visiting North Arkansas.
Being a college town, it’s only fitting that the hotel has a college theme that’s straight out of the 1980s. Makes you feel right at home.
With its colourful, modern motif which also pays tribute to the Ozarks, Graduate is a short distance from local eateries and attractions.
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