This Secret Corner Of Spain Is A Must For Food And Wine Lovers

You’ve probably heard of La Rioja, Spain’s most celebrated wine-making region, but what about Castile-León or the town of Miranda del Ebro? It may be worth committing these names to memory—especially if you love good food and wine.

The lesser-known side of Spain

There never used to be much reason for travelers to venture to the remote corner of Spain where the three autonomous regions of Rioja, Castile-León and the Basque Country meet. Many may have made it as far as la Rioja, with its countless wineries famed for their oak-aged Tempranillos, but few have explored the rolling green hills, mazes of sunflowers, and ancient villages further to the north.

Read on to find out why lovers of food, wine, architecture and history should steer their course for this much-overlooked enclave between Burgos to the west, Logroño to the east and Bilbao to the north, on their next trip to Spain.

Spain’s youngest Michelin-starred chef

If you want to know what the future of Spanish gastronomy looks like, look no further than Alejandro Serrano. In 2021, he became the youngest ever Spanish winner of a Michelin star, aged 24. The following year, he featured on the European Forbes 30 under 30 list for Arts & Culture. It doesn’t take a psychic to predict that Alejandro Serrano is going places—and that’s before you’ve even tried his food.

Having spent time in some of the most prestigious Michelin-approved kitchens in Spain, like Azurmendi and Diverxo, Serrano opened his eponymous restaurant in 2019. The location: his unassuming hometown of Miranda de Ebro in eastern Castile-León, where Serrano’s food might just be the most eye-catching feature. Dishes like the marinated Cantabrian anchovy “escabeche” served in a “marine forest” of tomatoes, rosemary and olives, or the “two sauce asparagus”, a traditional Navarre asparagus recipe from Serrano’ family’s restaurant, but with a fine-dining twist of extra-virgin olive oil mayo, spicy piparra vinaigrette, peas and shaved ice—made even brighter by the backdrop of bubblegum-pink plates and matching kitchen walls.

Rioja’s railway wine district

Seven wineries can be found in the wine neighborhood next to the train station in the tiny Riojan town of Haro. Established in the late 19th century, Haro’s Railway Station District forms part of what is known as the Golden Mile of Rioja, and can be visited on a walking tour complete with wine and tapa tastings, or on the annual train station tasting days.

The train station wineries range in style and size, from the larger houses like CVNE and Rioja Alta who specialize mainly in classic Rioja-style oak-aged wines, to artisanal Gómez Cruzado, which was founded in 1886 but still only produces 250,000 bottles a year. Led by a team of young winemakers, Gómez Cruzado is dedicated to recovering the traditional Riojan style of fine wines that were fresher, subtler and more elegant than the oaky, tannin-rich variety for which the region is known today.

Frías: the smallest “city” in Spain

Frías may have maintained the city status it was awarded in 1435 but, with a current population of 275, it is the smallest in Spain. Constructed between the 12th and 15th centuries, the Game of Thrones-worthy Frías castle clings perilously to the cliff overlooking the beautifully preserved medieval town center, while a string of wooden houses known as casas colgadas, or hanging houses, appear as if suspended over the gorge below.

The Church of San Vicente, with its Gothic and Renaissance chapels, is well worth a visit. Its original Romanesque portal is found in the Cloister Museum of New York.

La Rioja may be home to more than 500 wineries, but only one has a wine hotel designed by world-renowned architect Frank Gehry attached to it. Striking a stark contrast against the backdrop of ancient vineyards and the medieval town of Elciego, the pink, gold, and silver shimmering, undulating steel and titanium strips of Gehry’s creation have to be seen to be believed.

The hotel itself, which forms part of Marriott International’s Luxury Collection, consists of 43 rooms with plush beds and unforgettable views, a spa and the on-site Restaurante Marqués de Riscal that has been awarded a Michelin star for its avant-garde cuisine. All overnight stays come with a guided tour of the historic winery and a tasting included.