From sexy spice tours to crowd-free beaches – the Caribbean island to visit

WEAVING my way between piles of fresh coconuts, and countless banana trees, I thought I’d misheard our tour guide, Lorna.

But no, the 70-something-year-old local had really said: “This spice is some men’s favourite, as nutmeg is great for those that struggle to keep upright in the bedroom.”

7

As we wandered across the working plantation, I thought she’d be telling us about the Caribbean island’s native fruits and vegetables, but instead we played an intense game of innuendo bingo.

The Sun Valley plantation is one of more than 2,500 non-sugar plantations on the island — and it was obvious why tourists are desperate to visit them.

Our hosts, locals Lorna and Brian, were desperate for us to try everything — from stalks of fresh sugar cane to the native Otaheite apples and breadfruit.

It was then that we started to realise — to get the most out of Jamaica, you have to ask the locals what to see and do.

When we asked locals why tourists came to the island, many would give us the usual response — the culture, the food, the tropical weather.

But for some, there was a hint of disappointment when they admitted, “for the resorts”.

Yes, all-inclusive hotels are great — you’ve got friendly staff catering to your every need, unlimited food and drink, plus access to gorgeous pools and beaches.

But by tucking yourself away in a resort, there’s a chance you’ll miss out on the true Jamaican experience.

And that’s exactly what our driver, David Ricketts, didn’t want.

During our five days on the island, he knew all the spots we should visit, and they weren’t the ones listed on Tripadvisor.

In his eyes, a family-run stall in Portland, to the northeast of the Caribbean island, served the best beef patty — essentially a Cornish pasty and beef burger rolled into one.

And while he knew most tour guides could give us a good show round at the Blue Lagoon — a mix of fresh and salt-water that the locals say is bottomless — he knew tour guide Boxer would give us a unique experience.

As we set off across the 200ft deep, turquoise waters, we thought we’d spend most of our 60-minute boat tour out on the water.

But much was spent admiring treehouses on the shore, built high up into the tree canopy.

Before heading back to our boat, Boxer made sure to show us where we should stay the next time we were on the island.

Kanopi House, with retractable windows and doors, makes it possible to sleep directly under the stars, surrounded by 100ft, vine-wrapped banyan trees.

And you’ll sleep soundly after a dip in the Jacuzzi or a massage in your own treehouse.

It was our driver David who also recommended Miss T’s Kitchen, as we passed through Ocho Rios.

According to him, ordering the oxtail is a must — and he wasn’t wrong when he gave it ten out of ten.

It seems the best food in Jamaica is not that served in lavish hotel restaurants but the plates dished up by locals.

Like by Liyah, a native chef who, during a private cooking lesson, provided the best saltfish and ackee — a fruit belonging to the lychee family.

During our five-day tour of the island, we were offered this national dish for most meals, but her idea of serving it like American nachos, on a bed of thinly sliced, fried plantain was genius.

Jamaica is also a gem of a place for relaxing and recuperating.

And, yes, you can get all that from an adults-only, all-inclusive resort but these aren’t the only places.

Frenchman’s Cove, from the outside, looks like any regular hotel driveway.

But it’s less than a five-minute walk from an idyllic white-sand beach, where there’s a freshwater stream fitted with Instagrammable swing seats and an almost private section of the Caribbean sea.

It’s no surprise the resort’s sandy shore was named by Forbes in 2020 as one of the top Caribbean beaches.

The best part is that the beach remains fairly empty, making it the perfect place to unwind.

If peace and quiet are what you’re after, you are best limiting your time in the capital city, Kingston.

Although it’s here you get a really authentic taste of Jamaican culture.

The home of legendary reggae artist Bob Marley is certainly worth a visit.

The amazing detail of his former home that they have managed to maintain for posterity — including one of his last bags of marijauna — is mindblowing.

And a singalong in the famous studio is an experience you won’t forget.

Similar can be said for the historic Devon House.

The selling point here should be that it is the beautifully preserved home of the island’s first black millionaire, George Stiebel.

Instead, it’s the i-Scream. — according to tour guide David, the best ice cream on the island.

Having to unpack only once during the course of your holiday might sound appealing to some, but there are definite perks to moving around the island — although I recommend booking a tour guide to help, as the lack of street signs does make it a little confusing.

In the north, Montego Bay is great for those searching for good nightlife.

Ocho Rios, on the other hand, offers all the tourist activities — snorkelling, dolphin swimming and waterfall hikes — and then Kingston, in the southeast, holds a lot of the historical attractions.

It was here that we stayed, in the Pegasus Hotel, just a two-minute drive from the city centre.

Its website describes it as a “distinguished address for business and leisure” and it is just that.

With pilots and cabin crew constantly flooding the lobby, and functions often limiting pool access to other guests, this isn’t the location for a family vacation.

But with only a 25-minute drive to the airport and a five-minute drive to the centre of Kingston, it does make it a prime location.

Our group then moved on to Hotel Tim Bamboo, an independent hotel in Port Antonio where the home-style Jamaican catering and the friendly staff were great.

Plus, the cottages gave our group a private living space and kitchen to relax in during downtime.

But it was the drive between our two hotels that was the true perk.

Our group barely took their eyes off the road as we moved from the rolling sea to the jungle in a matter of minutes.

So, yes, you could go all-inclusive and lounge by a pool for days on end.

But after being stuck in one spot for the past two years, why wouldn’t you embrace a little Caribbean adventure?

7

7

7

7

7

7