New York Restaurants October 2022: Where To Go

Edible enlightenment from our eatery experts and colleagues Monie Begley, Richard Nalley and Randall Lane, as well as brothers Bob, Kip and Tim.

1431 Third Avenue (Tel.: 212-717-7772)

Shuttered by the pandemic and then a fire, this beloved 15-year-old seafood restaurant has reopened at a nearby location. Owners Bobby and Laura Shapiro and daughter Alexandra have pared down the menu, with delicious results—and amazing service. Start with the Ecuadorian ceviche of shrimp, tomato and corn; the tangy bluefin tuna; or the delicate hamachi with truffle, sea beans and yuzu koshu. Then have a glorious, creamy burrata or a straightforward Mediterranean salad. Crispy calamari served with Calabrian chili aioli is a must. The lobster roll is generous and rich. However, the mussels are the stars here—and in many kinds of delectable preparations: Classic, a simple sauce of garlic, butter and herbs; Thai, a subtle coconut curry, kaffir lime and lemongrass sauce; the angry lobster, a San Marzano tomato, calamari and garlic sauce; and tasty fra diavolo sauce. Be sure to order a side of Parmesan truffle-seasoned fries to go with your mussels. To end the meal, order a tray of four sugar-dusted donuts with various fillings.

411 Park Avenue South (Tel.: 212-567-8282)

A revered space to New York foodies, thanks to the legendary Anthony Bourdain, what was once Les Halles has reopened under cookware entrepreneur Francis Staub as La Brasserie. Both the clubby, informal physical design and the French basics keep Bourdain’s spirit alive, and what you see is what you get—whether it’s the bavette frites, the duck terrine or the mussels. Nothing heroic here, but a solid evergreen option with a lovely provenance.

289 Bleecker Street (Tel.: 917-261-2009)

A pretty spot created by former employees of Eleven Madison Park, with a lot of their former employer’s panache. Meat and fish, along with prices that are down to earth, have been reintroduced in chef Andrew Quinn’s menu, starting with the fluffy, buttery dinner roll loaf that’s baked to order. The menu changes with the seasons, and dishes like the plum-infused duck breast and the chili-invigorated linguine and clams indicate this is a classy neighborhood choice worth considering year-round.

85 West Broadway (Tel.: 646-813-9090)

This newbie is for all intents and purposes a sleek and attractive sports bar without the screens—a good place for a great conversation. Servings are plentiful and the food is good, if not raveworthy. The deviled eggs seem to have been in the refrigerator a while before a little caviar is sprinkled on them. Ditto the chilled corn soup with its lump crab garnish. The crispy chicken sandwich with coleslaw on brioche is tasty, and the mountain of fries that accompanies it could feed a table of four. The Cobb salad comes with a piquant creamy dressing, grilled avocado, perfectly grilled chicken and bacon on abundant and well-chilled greens. The rich chocolate cake and the lime cheesecake don’t quite achieve room temperature, which makes it easier to enjoy a few sinful bites without finishing them.

280 Park Avenue (Tel.: 646-869-5400)

Noted Brazilian restaurateur Gero Fasano has taken over the closed second incarnation of the Four Seasons Grill Room and retained much of the muted, elegant décor in the dining room. The front room’s sunken bar has been replaced with the relaxed, casual Osteria with lounge seating and adjacent bar, offering a range of salads, pastas, seafood and meat. In the main dining room executive chef Nicola Fedeli has created an authentic Northern Italian menu. Be forewarned: It’s expensive. There’s a five-course tasting menu on offer for $165. Begin with the perfectly prepared vitello tonnato—thinly sliced, rose-colored veal dotted with a rich tuna sauce—or the rich burrata with 30-month aged Parma Prosciutto. For a risotto, try the il carnaroli coe secoe made with short ribs. For the pasta course, try the fettuccine with lobster, the king crab and asparagus ravioli or the pappardelle with porcini mushrooms. For a main course, have the Dover sole in butter and lemon sauce, the sesame-crusted tuna or the osso buco served with a creamy saffron risotto. If you have room, order the delicious, authentic tiramisu.

1439 Second Avenue (Tel.: 212-899-9995)

This Thai restaurant defies many tenets of good eateries: no reservations, too many tables too close together and no dessert. What it does do is serve really creative, delicious Bangkok-influenced food in an attractive setting. The Thep platter is a generous collection of authentic Thai starters, including crab Rangoon, spring rolls, chive pancakes, fried chicken dumplings and fried shrimp dumplings. Curry choices are varied, and the green curry with chicken is smooth and not too spicy. The pad Thai with its stir-fried rice noodles, Chinese chives, sprouts and crushed peanuts in a tamarind sauce is wonderful. There are all sorts of classic fried rice dishes and some unique preparations all made with jasmine rice: Siamese, with scallions, tomatoes and Chinese broccoli; Thai sausage, with Thai sweet pork sausage in sweet red bean curd sauce. (Wander up to 81st Street to Anita La Mamma del Gelato for a dizzyingly delectable choice of a sweet to top off the meal.)