Jewelry To Invest In: The Sea Urchin Earrings By Lily Gabriella

The Brazilian designer’s recent Collector’s Editions saw her channel her love of color into a series of striking one-of-a-kind designs. With the Sea Urchin earrings, the JAR mentee has put her technical expertise to work in recreating the spiky surface and gentle curves of the seabed creature.

Two mismatched four-carat spinels sit atop domes of white gold, encrusted in micro-set diamonds, as spokes of inverted garnets and aquamarines reach towards the edges of the artist’s seascape fantasy. “I am inspired by my surroundings – from the architecture to fashion and art galleries, living in London you’re spoilt for choice,’’ she says, “but some of the pieces I created last summer were inspired by my travels abroad, the Manta Ray brooch and Sea Urchin earrings in particular. I enjoy taking something from the natural world”. She is not the only one, fellow Brazilian jewelry designer Silvia Furmanovich recently created an installation paying tribune to the Amazon rainforest, for Salon Art + Design.

With their sizable oval central stones, the earrings are ladies-who-lunch chic with a little of the Princess Diana about them, but it’s the beautifully mismatched colors that place them firmly within the here and now. Known for her use of color, the designer was influenced by the way light filters through the ocean to the seabed and the alternating blues and purples, aquamarines and garnets bring them to life. From sorting through her mother’s jewelry box, to her latest statement-making investment piece, Lily Gabriela lifts the lid on her work.

How did you get into jewelry? What was your initial inspiration? 

I am beyond grateful for having grown up in a home that celebrates design in all its forms. As a child, I was never told that I wasn’t allowed near a rare object, painting or jewel and I certainly didn’t know their value back then. I was always encouraged by my mother and grandmother, both avid jewelry collectors, to rummage through their jewels while they were dressing to go out. Just like any young girl, I was fascinated by the sparkle and colors of gemstones, but little did I know I was looking at beautiful jewels that spanned centuries of design, each with fantastic provenance and perfectly emblematic of the period they represent. My mother and grandmother were both born with a keen eye for quality, it’s in their blood. 

Tell me a little about your working process. Do your pieces start as sketches or are you led by the materials themselves?

I tend to think of chromatic combinations and shapes first – color is at the forefront of my designs, I then like to play with volume and light to emphasize the beauty of the stone. I have a background in fine art so I start by sketching ideas based around a chosen stone and finally, once a piece is made, I do a gouache painting of it. I find it a therapeutic way of closing the production process.

Are you drawn to any particular themes or materials in your work?

I am inspired by art and architecture and this is evident in my designs. I love to express my love of color, sculptural design and exceptional craftsmanship using distinctive materials and non-standard gemstone shapes, cuts and sizes, which adds to the uniqueness of the pieces.

How would you like to see the Sea Urchin earrings styled?

Jewellery, clothes and fashion in general is an integral aspect of how you express yourself and of course that is very personal. I want my jewelry to be an extension of the wearer’s personality and an emotional investment first and foremost. What is important to me is how my jewelry makes someone feel. I hope the wearer puts on my jewelry and feels empowered, beautiful and happy. Jewels are for enjoying, after all.

What is your own most treasured piece of jewelry?

I was given a beautiful ring to celebrate a milestone birthday. What was particular about this ring was that it spelled my name twice, in diamond cursive, as it wrapped around my finger. My grandmother, whom I was named after, had asked a dear jeweler friend of hers to create it for me. She then wrote a lovely letter saying that just as diamonds last forever, her and I are bound forever – just as our names are entwined in an infinite loop.

What new challenges do you have coming up

At the moment I am focusing on one-of-a-kind and bespoke jewels. My team will always say making my jewelry is a challenge, but we learn so much as no piece is the same. I like to design without inhibition so as not to limit my creativity – I am sure my production team would like to reign me in occasionally but they are a talented and dedicated team who always enjoy finding a way to bring my designs to life, however technically complicated it may be. Working with titanium for the first time recently, certainly posed new challenges, but I think looking at our Pink & Blue Swirl Earrings (above), it was definitely worth it.

The interview was edited for clarity.