Carolina Herrera Pre-Fall 2023 Collection

Carolina Herrera’s Wes Gordon dressed Adele for a performance over the weekend at the Colosseum at Caesars Palace in Las Vegas, where she’s in the midst of a month’s long residency. It was a nice bit of synergy; Gordon’s concept for the pre-fall collection that the label started showing to buyers on Monday is divas: Maria Callas, Cher, and Mrs. Herrera herself—“women who are metaphorically or literally in the spotlight, and dress for it,” he explained. “Thats our woman.”

Picture Callas on stage receiving a rose bouquet. That was Gordon’s starting point for the collection’s many floral prints, be they on a georgette evening dress as fluid and fluttery as a slip or on a tightly gathered strapless cocktail number backed with black stretch crepe for an hourglass fit. He paired different florals top to bottom and threw in contrasting flower print belts and shoes, too—“if they’re bright and bold enough, it works,” he said. Hearts were a recurring motif, as well, both in print form and as sculptural details including the draped taffeta hearts inset into the bodices of a pair of party dresses.

Gordon likes the look of a solid colored sheath, in dark denim, or olive gabardine, say, that could almost count as minimal if it weren’t for its curve-enhancing cut. But more often than not this collection leaned flamboyant—for divas of every stripe. There’s a Cher-worthy strapless jumpsuit with tiered gazar ruffles spilling down the calves, and (dialing back the decades) an operatic evening dress with a whittled underskirt peeking out from underneath a blossoming over skirt. Showing off a white tulle pouf embellished with heart-shaped silver paillettes, he said, “ I hope someone wears this to her wedding.” Brides to be out there, any takers?