A Michelin surprise: 6 California restaurants get early recognition as ‘new discoveries’

We weren’t expecting to hear from the Michelin folks this soon in the calendar year, seeing as how the coveted 2022 stars for dining excellence were just awarded in December.

But the Michelin Guide officials have decided to call attention early to the culinary gems their restaurant inspectors have already found during their year-round visits. This first list for 2023 features six “new discoveries” in California, from a Korean tapas spot in San Francisco to a San Diego seafood house.

“These establishments are highlighted as “New” on guide.michelin.com to help food lovers enjoy new discoveries before the annual announcement of Bib Gourmands and Stars,” a Michelin representative said in the announcement.

Michelin highlighted “new discoveries” for the first time in the summer of 2021.

Will the praise for these restaurants be elevated to Michelin stars when the guide is released later this year? Or become Bib Gourmand honors, the Michelin awards given to restaurants that offer “excellent food at reasonable prices” to diners? It’s a wait-and-see situation for these chefs.

Here are the new discoveries, along with dining notes from the Michelin inspectors:

Bansang, San Francisco: “The name references the traditional style of serving a communal Korean meal, which dates back centuries to the Joseon royal court, but there’s nothing remotely old-fashioned or stuffy about a meal here. The cooking is an unapologetically contemporary take on Korean cuisine, readily incorporating ingredients like parmesan cheese and chorizo into the likes of kimchi fried rice or crispy rice cakes, fitting together seamlessly beside more classic offerings like mulhwe, a dish of raw seafood with a chilled fermented chili broth. Appropriately, the tapas-style menu is geared toward shared plates, though a starter of sweet-tangy soy lime glazed fried chicken, boasting a craggy, ultra-crunchy exterior and juicy, tender meat, is so good you’ll want to discard any idea of sharing.”

Leona’s Sushi House, Studio City: “Some places have great ambience. Others have terrific food. Think you can’t find both in the same spot? Think again, then head to Leona’s Sushi House. This hip spot has a variety of distinctive spaces that lure creative types and beautiful people. Chef Shigenori Fujimoto has teamed up with Frank Leon and Evan Ross on a Japanese fusion menu that never misses a beat. Dishes are often irreverent, as in rich and savory udon carbonara with paper thin smoked pork belly, creamy egg and parmigiano; and the sticky-sweet oxtail-stuffed bao is craveworthy. Seafood is impressive, whether it’s ceviche or sashimi-quality halibut bathed in a ponzu sauce vinaigrette. Chef’s specials include shimeji risotto or whole baked branzino with sake.”

Niku X, Los Angeles: “Nestled on the second floor of The Wilshire Grand Central, Niku X is a stunner, boasting traditional Japanese design elements and a fully open kitchen. This is classic Yakiniku-style cooking with contemporary techniques under the watchful eye of Chef Shin Thompson. Beef is a focal point here, where certified Japanese A5 Wagyu is sustainably sourced from the group’s privately owned farm as well as from Australia, Portland and Japan. Dry-aging on site results in some of the most flavor-packed meat around. Sourcing is taken seriously, as seen in the crudo with its silky aged Ora King salmon and shima aji. Yakiniku courses are cooked over state-of-the-art robatayaki grills and may include hotate with Hokkaido uni butter and seven-day, dry-aged steelhead trout.”

Selanne Steak Tavern, Laguna Beach: “Once a home, this historic setting on Pacific Coast Highway now houses a winning steakhouse. Inside, a variety of settings welcome guests, ranging from the upstairs Loft, the bistro-style Wine Library, the handsome Tavern, or outside on the Veranda or Sunset Terrace. The buzzy bar is also a favorite perch for a crowd that’s both relaxed and regulars. Steak is revered in this place and it lives up to its promise with tender, well-marbled meat, but the kitchen ratchets it up with expert cooking (and dousing it in butter never hurts). Thick seared mushrooms in a Madeira reduction are a nice touch, and creamy, buttery mashed potatoes are a must, but don’t monkey around when it comes to dessert — Selanne’s monkey bread can’t be missed.”