A Trip To The West Coast’s Loneliest Surf Beach

Reaching this remote destination includes passing through the famous Twilight zone. Here’s why it’s worth the trip to the Quileute Nation on Washington state’s wild coast.

No vampires allowed

Traveling to this beautiful spot is no easy feat. The drive from Seattle is more than four hours, though you can easily break up the trip with a stop at the historic Lake Crescent Lodge in the Olympic National Park.

You’ll know you’re close to the final stop when you see the sign warning vampires they can travel no further. That’s right, you’re in Twilight country. That compelling series of books by Stephenie Meyer was set in this sort of spooky location. There’s still an annual celebration of all things Bella and Edward in Forks, a gathering that’s fittingly called Forever Twilight.

Surf’s up on First Beach

The Quileute Ocean Resort offers various accommodations, including luxury oceanfront cabins. My husband and I rolled into the RV park in our 23-foot motorhome and snagged a spot with a jaw-dropping beach vistas.

After getting settled in, which included warming up with a coffee at Native Grounds Espresso, we walked the entire First Beach. In the mile-plus stretch of sand, we saw few other visitors but a handful of hardy surfers out in the water. Brrrr.

Unlike the prime surfing spots in California and Hawaii, wetsuits are essential in this chilly section of coast. But the hardcore surfers waiting for the perfect wave didn’t seem to mind.

While First Beach is the easiest to reach, adventurous hikers appreciate the even more under-the-radar Second and Third Beaches, accessible on well-maintained trails.

Want to check out the curls? There’s a webcam that keeps surfers and beachcombers up to speed.

Fueling up

Most visitors know to bring supplies when heading to this neck of the woods because there’s very little in the way of retail. However, if you see a sign offering smoked salmon, don’t be shy about knocking on a door. I’ve scored some incredible fish from friendly folks.

And speaking of smoked salmon, the hash at River’s Edge Restaurant near the resort is well worth waking up early. The lunch and dinner menus features classics such as burgers, fish and chips, grilled salmon salad and clam chowder.

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