A twirl around New York’s cocktail scene with master mixologist Leo Robitschek 

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This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to New York

My love affair with New York City started as a child. The first time I visited I was nine years old, joining my parents for a work trip. I remember being joyfully overwhelmed by the percolating energy in the city. Within minutes, I turned to my mom and told her that I was going to live here one day. 

After I graduated from university, I came to work in finance, but New York had other plans for me. I would find myself frequenting every classic bar and restaurant that I had read about, making my way through the city’s rich history through food and drink. I have always enjoyed trying new ingredients and unfamiliar flavours, and the mesmerising dance of service.

Decades later, I am still energised by the tempo and ambition of New York, and I love that, on any given day, I can hop from bar stool to bar stool, tasting some of the best food and drink in the world, all within a few square miles. I have many favourite places, depending on the occasion, my mood, or the time of year. 

New bars and restaurants

Culinarily, I wish I could dine daily at Ito in Tribeca, a 16-seat restaurant where chef-owners Masa Ito and Kevin Kim serve a top-notch omakase. I met the duo when they worked at Sushi Zo in Los Angeles and in Greenwich Village, where they honed their skills. Ito builds on their modern Japanese approach to sushi, while the whiskey- and sake-forward drinks programme, joyous ambience and service all have a New York influence. This novel approach both elevates the dining experience and makes it more fun and hospitable at the same time. 

In the cocktail world, I have been blown away by my experiences at Martiny’s, a stylish Japanese-style cocktail lounge that occupies a three-storey carriage house in Gramercy. (It was once owned by the French-American sculptor Philip Martiny, hence the name.) Takuma Watanabe, who used to run the legendary but currently closed speakeasy Angel’s Share, is making some of the tastiest cocktails in the city, served alongside bar snacks that rival most Michelin-star restaurants, courtesy of chef Wayne S Cheng (formerly of Masa and Eleven Madison Park). Some of my favourite drinks were the B&B Gibson and Tea Ceremony, and the fried-chicken, sando and uni rice were all delicious. It’s not a bar for all occasions, but ideal for a perfectly curated cocktail experience to enjoy with a friend or two, or on your own.

I also love what bartender Matt Reysen is doing at Mel’s and Discolo in Chelsea. Mel’s is the perfect spot to head to for a second date or with a group of friends, for delicious pizza and even better drinks. Amaro lovers will be very happy here, but you otherwise can’t go wrong with any drink from Reysen’s Italian-inspired menu. After dinner, head downstairs to the underground bar Discolo, if the date goes well or you want to keep the party going. It’s small and brimming with revellers taking in a DJ and the quaffable takes on what are normally bad ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s cocktails, such as Sex on the Beach. The drinks are seemingly simple but full of flavour.

At Discolo, you can see Reysen’s influence from working at some of New York’s great cocktail bars, especially the inspiration from Harrison Ginsberg, who makes some of my favourite cocktails in the city at Overstory, in the Financial District. Ginsberg’s mastery of flavour is showcased in such cocktails as the Terroir Old Fashioned (tequila, Palo Santo bitters, sea salt). Or if you ask nicely, he will let you order the off-menu Honey Spritz (made with Calvados, chamomile-infused gin, Ambrato vermouth and house-made honey soda), which is dangerously drinkable.

If I am looking for a place to meet a group of friends or to unwind, I’ll head over to Jac’s on Bond for cocktails and small plates. While its design is minimalist-chic, it still feels like a lounge and a neighbourhood bar at the same time — something that is nearly impossible to do. A rarity in New York, it’s also a place you can walk in and avoid all the hoop-jumping that a night out sometimes entails. The drinks are delicious, the short food menu is just what you want it to be, and there’s a pool table too, should you be so inclined. I usually start with the Killin’ Em Softly cocktail (with tequila, sherry, basil eau de vie and strawberry) accompanied with some oysters and jamón.

Old favourites

Dear Irving, a speakeasy-like cocktail bar in Gramercy, is an old favourite for a date night. Bar director Meaghan Dorman concocts delicious takes on classic cocktails (including the best Gibson in the city) and her service feels like a warm hug. If dinner is on the cards, the upscale Italian restaurant Marea, for the octopus and bone-marrow fusilli, is always a winner.

When I feel like my younger self, I’ll head to Mr Paradise in the East Village for excellent, well-made cocktails that could rival some of the city’s most acclaimed establishments. I usually order a Scuba Steve, a clarified stirred gimlet with vodka, mango, coconut and lime leaf — though one quick cocktail can easily turn into four or five here.

For a Sunday brunch, I often find myself at Casa Mono for pan con tomate, jamón and razor clams alongside some Spanish cider and sherry. And when I seek comfort, a bowl of Minca Ramen always does the trick.

Eating and drinking aside . . . 

During the pandemic, I found great hikes within half an hour of NYC. I’ll ride my bike up to the Palisades cliffs that overlook the city. Sometimes I rent a Zipcar and head to South Orange, New Jersey, for hikes that take in impressive waterfalls. I have also started taking pottery-wheel classes at La Mano Pottery studio, and love a good late-night dance session, especially at Battle Hymn. 

Leo Robitschek is a partner at Sydell Group and responsible for developing the bar programmes for the NoMad hotels and the rooftop restaurant and bar elNico at Penny Williamsburg in New York. He is also author of ‘The NoMad Cocktail Book’ (Penguin Random House)

Who does the best cocktails in New York in your opinion? Tell us in the comments below

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