American Bottles For An American Holiday

Not to be all nationalist (though nothing wrong with that unless you are storming a capitol building), but Thanksgiving presents an unparalleled showcase for terrific American wines to shine. Here are a few to try that are reliable performers for the many diverse flavors and textures on the holiday table.

ROSE.

Evening Land Vineyards “Seven Springs” Rose of Pinot Noir 2021, Eola-Amity Hills, Ore. From noted sommelier and author Raj Parr, this dry rose smacks of grapefruit, tart baby strawberries, fresh cherries and a line of saline. Full of charm; sip before dinner or with turkey.

Gamble Family Vineyards Rose 2021, Napa. This darker-hued rose looks great on the next to the cranberry sauce and with a Bordeaux-like red-fruited base (Cabernets Sauvignon and Franc, and Merlot), it stands up to heartier dishes. A nice retort to anyone who doesn’t think rose belongs on the Thanksgiving table (so, there!)

Sullivan Rutherford Estate Rose 2021, Napa. Dry with raspberry flavors but melon notes push this a bit toward the tropical fruit side of the taste spectrum, this otherwise shows savory brush and herbs like lavender. A blend of Merlot and Malbec.

REDS

Domaine Bouchaine “Pommard Clone” Pinot Noir 2019, Napa Valley. This lithe and straight-forward Pinot hails from the cool-climate Carneros region. Rich cola notes, cooked strawberries and raspberry compote and chocolate notes provide the backbone. A little dusting of earthy cocoa powder finishes it. Hands down reliable and relatable.

Duckhorn Merlot 2019, Napa Valley. This is a total pro wine from a pro producer. Delicious and smooth but earthy note keeps this from slipping into “EZ drinking.” Black plum and crunch cherry, silky tannins, this is a real hero wine for Merlot.

Landmark “Overlook” Pinot Noir 2019, California. A blend of Pinot grapes mostly from Monterey and Sonoma counties (with a wee bit of Santa Barbara), this silky strawberry- and plum driven wine is silky and sleek. Aged in small French oak barrels for 10 months.

Paul O’Brien Pinot Noir 2018, Umpqua Valley, Ore. An elegant and refined Pinot that can compete with the French classics. Composted earth notes give this plenty of soul while the ripe dark-red fruits contribute a modern flair.

Gary Farrell Pinot Noir 2018, Russian River Valley, Sonoma. A suave offering from the Hallberg Vineyard of a sustainably farmed estate. Good richness of red fruits, judicious use of oak that serves as an accompaniment to, not a driver of, the character.

Mira Syrah, Hyde Vineyard 2017, Napa Valley. You don’t see much Syrah on the Thanksgiving table, so this bottle is a good reason to break tradition. This is a concentrated wine of black fruits (blackberry, currant) with gravel and leather notes providing a mineral, earthy backbone. Aged 18 months in neutral French oak. Save the turkey leg for this one.

Newton “The Puzzle” 2018, Napa Valley. This is the 30th anniversary for the signature Bordeaux-style blend from this hallmark winery. 77% driven by Cabernet Sauvignon, it’s produced from a single puzzle-shaped parcel on the Spring Mountain estate, which is rebuilding after the Glass wildfire in 2020 damaged the property. Made before the fire, this wine is a heritage product. Black fruit with an herbal overlay, elevated by an iodine note and an oyster-shell-like richness, this is a historic wine to enjoy now or buy and drink with next year’s turkey.

WHITES

Calera Chenin Blanc 2020, Central Coast, Santa Ynez Valley. A label from the venerable Duckhorn, this is a bigger-bodied Chenin than you’d expect, boasting lemon curd, baked pear and almond. The 40 -year-old vines are in limestone soils, which contribute to the richness on the palate. Aged in French oak and finished off in stainless steel.

Canvasback White Rhone Wine 2021, Yakima Valley, Washington. A domestic Rhone blend of Viognier, Grenache Blanc and Marsanne, this is both lush and tart thanks to its lemon zesty profile back by good acidity. Rich, weighty and plush without being too heavy. Made from high-elevation (1,400 feet) grapes. A surprising 12.8% abv, so drink all day!

Chappellet “Signature” Chenin Blanc 2021, Napa Valley. This expressed Alsace Riesling-like notes (and even comes in the same kind of bottle) but on the mouth was more of a Chenin profile: a dry, rich, mouth-filling, baked-apple profile. It’s the best of both worlds.

Early Mountain Petit Manseng 2020, Virginia. This is one of my favorite wines from this excellent winery. Anise notes on the nose; on the palate, quince, baked apple and yellow pear shine in this round, medium-bodied white that will do service to roast turkey. Don’t serve too chilled.

FEL Pinot Gris 2021, Anderson Valley. This is a satisfying wine any time in the fall or winter, but plays especially well with Thanksgiving’s diverse dishes. Medium bodied and a little waxy and glycerol, this shows juice white pear. It’s an ode to the winemaker’s mother and a good one to serve to yours.

Joseph Jewell “Artist Series” Pinot Gris 2021, Ryan Vineyard Humboldt County. Fermented on its grape skins, this very dry and tart wine is a good conversation starter when you’re stuck with all those relatives. Interesting mishmash of sour cherry, cranberry and pomegranate. Save some for leftovers the next day.

Pellegrini Vineyard Chardonnay 2019, North Fork. A stainless-steel fermented Chard from estate-grown grapes. Steely and light, I didn’t expect much depth but was surprised by the nice lemon notes and minerality.

RGNY Viognier 2020, North Fork, Long Island. A wine that overturns your assumptions about Viognier—especially good if you’re not a fan of the classic wine from Rhone. This medium-bodied, creamy version showing pretty yellow fruit is a good option for people who don’t like the intense aromatics and tropical fruits of other Viogniers. Great pairing with those difficult greens.