Antique Topaz Makes For Stunning Birthstone Jewelry

I need to get a little personal regarding topaz as the primary birthstone of November. Over the years, the jewelry community tried to sneak in other colors of topaz such as blue topaz, pink topaz and imperial topaz, none of which are actually the original birthstone of this month. Citrine is the secondary stone, another yellow gem, and I have always believed that as a November baby, I got the worst gem of 12 months—as yellow is definitely not my color. I would have gone for any other stone of the other 11 months, preferring those between April and July. But as an antique collector and aficionado, I would be thrilled with this gemstone if it was designed between the Georgian and Victorian periods. The artistry, the handmade quality, the detailed work of the metal and the charm and personality have won me over to appreciate topaz of the bygone eras.

I have also learned through writing a book about antique jewelry that topaz dates back over 2000 years. One of the first sources for the gem was Sri Lanka; today, you can still get Ceylon topaz gems. They are also sourced in Brazil and have been since the 18th century and continue to be one of the largest mine resources for modern jewelry.

In the Middle Ages, topaz, which had witnessed popularity before, fell out of favor.

But then, after the discoveries of the mines in Brazil, the stone hit a new height of recognition. It was used in the Georgian/Regency and Victorian periods, spreading throughout Europe and becoming one of the main stones in the designs coming out of Portugal.

Here are some stunners in antique jewelry, which I would be proud to wear, own, and call my birthstone.

S.J. Phillips antique graduated golden topaz collets as a bandeau, formerly belonging to Gloria, the late Dowager Countess Bathurst, converted probably from bracelets, circa 1800. The nineteen golden-orange topaz collets are close cut-down collet set in gold, fitted upon a later double-wire headband.

Bentley & Skinner’s early Victorian suite. This demi parure features a pair of earrings and a matching necklace, each entirely set with wonderful, faceted honey-hued topaz stones. The topaz is set to intricate yellow gold collets, complementing the topaz

Wartski’s antique diamond and topaz cross pendant, English, c.1895.

Kentshire’s Georgian foiled-back, cushion-cut topaz ring, in 18K gold.

Bentley & Skinner’s early Victorian topaz and diamond brooch/pendant with a cushion-cut orange topaz in a cut-down set in yellow gold collet with closed back, surrounded by a diamond-set scroll design frame, suspending a pear-shaped drop, centrally-set with a pear-shaped topaz, surrounded by old mine cut diamonds, the old-cut diamonds, all mounted in silver and gold, with gold brooch fitting and foldable pendant loop, circa 1860

Sandra Cronan’s precious baguette cut topaz and diamond bracelet with emerald cut yellow sapphires. The bracelet has a highly ornate scrolling design, French, circa 1920.

Doyle & Doyle’s antique earrings of fleur de lis tops are set with ten rose cut diamonds, suspending two round brilliant cut diamonds and two pear-shaped topaz gemstones.