At This Beauty Founder’s SoHo Loft, a Communal Filipino Dinner With a Deeper Meaning

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Asparagus spring rolls, miso sesame mushroom skewers, pickled mango, and a halved Napa cabbage topped with Thai basil and almond crumble were all spread in abundance atop banana leaves; surrounding them were rice, green vegetables, and little earthenware bowls full of banana vinegar, garlic scape, and sweet chili sauces. Smallhold mushroom centerpieces sat aside dripping taper candles, while the sleek table and chairs (and indeed the loft as a whole) once belonged to architect Lauretta Vinciarelli, known for her work alongside Donald Judd.

Deters planned the Kamayan-style dinner—a tradition of communal eating in the Philippines, in which food is placed atop a banana leaf and guests share the meal sans silverware—to gather friends in honor of AAPI month, working in collaboration with Brooklyn-based chef Woldy Reyes to bring it to life. 

Reyes, who is also known under the moniker Woldy Kusina, recently announced the upcoming publication of his first cookbook, In the Kusina, which will take classic Filipino recipes and lend them a contemporary twist. The pair met several months back, and immediately bonded over their sadness that their favorite Filipino restaurants in New York had shuttered during Covid, as well as a number of friends they shared.

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