Autumn watch: where to see New York’s most beautiful fall foliage

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This article is part of a guide to New York from FT Globetrotter

Autumn is perhaps the ideal time to be in New York. It’s not only a reprieve from sweltering summer weather — and a moment of mercy before the chill of winter takes hold — but for nature lovers, it’s the annual opportunity to see the trees across the state burst into colour. Such is their delight that the term “leaf peeping” has been coined to describe the activity of travelling to view and photograph autumn foliage.

This week, New York is due to reach prime leaf-peeping time, with native trees and other planted varieties starting to turn and expected to fully colour in the coming days and weeks.

“We had three months of drought this summer so I was expecting no fall colour, but we started to get rain, and then had beautiful sunshine and cool nights, which is sort of the recipe,” says Katherine Kerin, a landscape curator at Innisfree Garden in Millbrook, a village less than two hours’ drive from New York City. “It’s really shaping up to be beautiful. It started slowly and very golden, so we’re just beginning to see more oranges and reds.”

The season is later this year as a result of the dry weather, though 2021 brought far different conditions — and the unpredictability is deeply worrying for nature’s custodians, who are left grasping for how to best prepare. “Last summer we had huge amounts of rain, and in a totally different rainfall pattern . . . that was really unusual,” says Kerin. “So to flip to no rain this summer, thinking about the climate, it isn’t just getting hot and dry, it’s everything. We have no idea what’s coming next.” 

While there are no silver linings to the climate crisis, this year, at least, Kerin says: “Our reward for this horrible summer is that it’s an exquisite fall.”

Below are some of the most beautiful places to take in the autumnal majesty of New York’s trees.

The area has a long history of maple farming . . . 

. . . and some farms even host maple syrup-themed weekends for visitors keen to learn how the sticky stuff is produced

From Dover Plains, the walk to the famous church is about 0.3 miles and takes less than 10 minutes

En route you’ll spy colourful vines creeping up old cedars

Other highlights include the weeping hemlock, another native tree, which was discovered in Dutchess County, where Innisfree is located

At the heart of the garden you’ll find its vast lake and a pretty walking route around the perimeter

The landscaping at Innisfree has been largely influenced by Chinese and Japanese design principles since work began on the site in the late 1920s

A core principle at Innisfree is to work with nature to attain design goals. It has long been heralded for its environmentally sensitive garden design

Cattails, for example, are an invasive species, but were planted to the garden as they provide food and cover for birds, and clean soil and water

In 2019, Innisfree was listed on the National Register of Historic Places, noting its ‘exceptional significance’ in landscape architecture

How to get there

Each place highlighted is less than 90 miles from New York City — around a 2h drive. All are feasible for a day trip. The woods at Wingdale and Nuclear Lake are accessible by hiking trails; both are of moderate difficulty.

Map showing locations of Wingdale, Dover Stone Church, Innisfree Garden, and Nuclear Lake in New York State

Do you have a favourite place in New York in autumn? Tell us in the comments

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