Barbecue sides that will steal the show | Kitchen aide

I always forget about sides at a barbecue. What should I make?
Sarah, Norwich
Burgers, hotdogs and whole fish tend to get all the attention at barbecues, but you can’t live on sausages alone. “Buy a load of peas in their shell and get them on the barbecue until they’re nicely charred,” suggests chef Tomos Parry, co-owner of Brat and the soon-to-open Mountain, both in London. “Throw them in a bowl with some olive oil, mint and salt, and eat like edamame, ideally with a glass of wine.”

Anthony Demetre’s Piedmontese peppers are another thrill from the grill. The chef/proprietor of Wild Honey in London says, “Cut them in half, pull out the seeds and pith, then put in half a tomato, a few capers, a little chopped garlic, an anchovy fillet, any herbs you have to hand and a drop of olive oil.” Grill slowly on a barbecue, then leave to cool to room temperature: “They’ll get better and better with time.”

Parry’s courgette chunks cooked in three stages, meanwhile, are the perfect bit on the side for sausages: “Cook half of them slowly with garlic and fennel until they turn to mush, then add half the remaining chopped courgettes and cook until tender. Take off the heat, stir in the last third of the courgettes with some basil, mint, olive oil and salt to taste. That’s one of my favourites.”

Chances are burgers will feature somewhere, so get some leeks going, too. “Grill them whole until well done, then cover with a tea towel and leave to steam,” says Lasse Petersen, head chef at Llewelyn’s in London. Once cool, peel, chop and dress, “either simply with just vinegar, or go fancier with gribiche [AKA egg mayo studded with chopped gherkin and herbs]”. Also proving that eggs make everything better are Petersen’s green beans, which he “marinates in a splash of water, olive oil and salt for 10 minutes, so they don’t need pre-cooking”, then whack them directly on the grill. “Meanwhile, mash some hard-boiled egg yolkswith capers, anchovies, garlic, chopped parsley and tarragon.” Combine with the chopped grilled beans, and the job’s a good’un.

It’s also worth having marinades or sauces up your sleeve – Demetre’s go-to is whizzed preserved lemon, green chilli, garlic, honey, olive oil and salt, which he brushes over hispi cabbage while it’s grilling. James Whetlor, author of The DIY BBQ Cookbook, takes cabbage inspiration from India: “Sweat onions, garlic and ginger in ghee, add a teaspoon of turmeric and cook for four minutes.” Add coconut milk and stock in equal measures, then reduce “until it’s the consistency of double cream”. Season, pour over the grilled cabbage and finish with fried shallots and coriander.

“We do a really cool smacked cucumber and watermelon salad,” says Daniel Watkins, head chef/co-founder oof Acme Fire Cult in London. This summer hit is made by giving cucumber “a good beating with a rolling pin” and seasoning. The watermelon, on the other hand, can be prepped two ways: “When it’s bang in season, chop and fold into the cucumber; and if it’s not the best, caramelise on a barbecue first.” Either way, add “a fiery chilli oil, then accessorise with fresh mint, maybe coriander, and some shredded makrut lime leaf – it’s incredible.”

Finally, for a potato salad no one will pass on, try Watkins’ Japanese-style number. “I don’t know how I didn’t discover it sooner,” he says. Essentially, rice some cooked potato, then fold in Kewpie mayo (or dashi powder), chopped pickles and herbs. “It’s incredibly moreish, and like a mashed potato salad.” And, as all sensible folk know, that’s hard to beat.