Benjamin Prime At Twilight Shows New York’s Unique Steakhouse Style

Summer was trying to hold last week when I visited Benjamin Prime on Manhattan’s East Side, whose office buildings are again filling up and whose occupiers are hungry for a great steak dinner. Just past twilight the temperature was in the low 70s, making it a capital idea to dine al fresco within a beautifully designed, well-lighted tent space trimmed in greenery with a pleasing view of passersby. The moon was in its three-quarters phase, and New York seemed at peace again after the distress of the pandemic. (I’m told the outdoor section, enclosed, will remain open through winter.)

There is, perhaps, no better place to celebrate New York’s enduring vitality than at a classic sophisticated steakhouse, and the family-owned Benjamin Restaurant Group, whose first unit opened in 2006, has grown to several others in New York and as far as Tokyo and Kyoto. They also run the Sea Fire Grill reviewed here a few months ago. Benjamin Prime opened in 2016.

Owners Benjamin Prelvukaj and Benjamin Sinanaj and their staff have a very personal touch with all their clientele, which includes a great number of regulars, newcomers and a large component of Asian tourists. It is a mark of those Eastern Europeans, in this case Albanian, to hire veterans from within who share the same sense of cordiality. No guest waits long for a waiter to appear or for the food to come out of the kitchen.

Benjamin Prime inside takes over 10,000 square feet with a high ceiling—it can get loud at peak hours, which end around nine—done in dark woods, leather banquettes, sprays of flowers and spacious tables set with white linens. Upstairs are five private party rooms seating 150.

I don’t discern much difference from Benjamin Prime (hereafter BP) and the other Benjamins, since they all serve USDA Prime beef, as well as Colorado lamb. Some of the dishes may slightly differ, but overall they share the same menu, all steakhouse classics of a kind that never go out of style.

This is the kind of menu that begs the question, “What am I in the mood for?” You probably came for the beef, which we’ll get to in a moment, but let’s begin at the beginning with a selection of tartares—Scottish salmon and yellowfin tuna with a citrus crème fraîche ($27); filet mignon with black truffle crème fraîche and truffle shavings ($35); or strip loin and foie gras with caramelized onions ($39), all of which are out of the ordinary compared with other steakhouses’. Lobster bisque ($19) rises or falls on how much lobster flavor the soup has and how much lobster meat is included, criteria BP meets generously.

There is a dish of two lump crabmeat cakes ($29) as an appetizer that would usually be offered as a more expensive main course. These are meaty, creamy and come with a red pepper coulis, beet remoulade, frisée lettuce and tartar sauce. As elsewhere, there is sizzling Canadian bacon “extra thick” ($29) and it’s true. Juicy and full flavored, this can easily be shared at a table for two or more because each morsel is so rich.

BP dry ages its beef in its own cold lockers, and the porterhouse cut that has become a New York signature can be had for two, three or four people ($132 for two, $198 for three, $264 for four), and believe me, any of that number will end up taking some home. The option for two people will readily feed three and three four. The beef takes a good char and remains succulent throughout, suffused with melting marbleized fat. The rack of lamb from Colorado is expertly cooked as well and comes with old-fashioned mint jelly ($65).

The swordfish ($45) comes from off Montauk, Long Island, and it’s sweet and meaty, with a light blacken seasoning and creamy tartar sauce. The homefried potatoes ($16) are about average, the “creamless” creamed spinach ($16) delicious and the onion rings ($17) addictive and come in a lavish portion.

The best of several excellent house-made desserts ($14) is the Key lime pie with just the perfect balance of tang, sweetness and velvety texture throughout.

BP’s wine list, as at all the company’s units, is outstanding, and it gets a clientele willing to pop for the big Bordeaux, Barolos and California Cabs. Prices, expectedly, are not cheap but tell your budget to the manager and he’ll meet it with the best of breed.

It is that overall, all-around hospitality that distinguishes BP. Its space is big and convivial, the atmosphere lively and the option of dining outdoors through winter gives an added reason for choosing this among so many East Side beef emporiums.

BENJAMIN PRIME

23 East 40th Street

212-338-0818

Open for lunch and dinner Monday-Friday; dinner Saturday and Sunday.