Brazilian Big Wave Surfer Marcio Freire Dies Surfing Portugal’s Nazaré

The tiny town of Nazaré on Portugal’s west coast has become famous around the world for the monster wave that breaks in the waters off its beach, Praia do Norte. But that fame has turned to tragedy with news that veteran Brazilian big wave surfer Marcio Freire has died surfing there.

According to Portuguese media, Freire had paddled out at Nazaré on Thursday January 5th and paddled into a few waves in the 12-15 foot range without trouble. Then as the surf was increasing in size, he switched to tow surfing in the afternoon, where the surfer is pulled into the wave behind a jetski so they can enter it with more speed.

Not equipped with his usual inflatable safety vest, Freire continued with a flotation vest in its place. At around 4:15pm he wiped out on a wave and lost consciousness. Fellow surfer Lucas Chumbo recovered the unconscious Freire in the water and got him towed back to the beach, but the awaiting lifeguards’ attempts to resuscitate him tragically failed and his death was declared on the beach.

In a statement the National Maritime Authority said, “A 47-year-old man of Brazilian nationality died this afternoon after falling while practising surfing in Praia do Norte… The rescuers found that the victim was in cardio-respiratory arrest, immediately starting resuscitation manoeuvres on the sand. After several attempts, it was not possible to reverse the situation.”

Freire’s sad passing marks the first time a surfer has died at this now legendary big wave since it came to the world’s attention in the early 2010s via American surfer Garrett McNamara, who has since been aiming to become the first surfer to break the mythical 100 foot wave barrier. The current record for the biggest wave ever surfed is held at Nazaré by German surfer Sebastian Steudtner, who in 2020 rode a wave measured at 86 feet.

The respected – nay legendary – 47-year-old Freire was part of the pioneering crew of Brazilian surfers who first attempted to conquer Hawaii’s infamous big wave, “Jaws”, documented in the 2016 film “Mad Dogs”. He had lived for 20 years in Hawaii and leaves a huge hole in the big wave community.

Fellow big wave surfer Nic von Rupp posted to Instagram, “Today we lost one of ours. Always had loads of respect for Marcio as one of the paddle pioneers at Jaws. Today I saw him surf all day at Nazaré with a huge smile… with that smile is how I’m going to remember him.” Renowned sports photographer Fred Pompermayer said, “Today we lost a great man, a very good friend and a legendary surfer, Marcio Freire. He was such a happy spirit, always with a smile on his face… Rest in peace my friend.”