Breitling Adds A Tourbillon Chronograph To The Premier, Dedicated To Its Founding Fathers

Breitling’s Premier collection is the elite collection within the Breitling line, and as such, the repository of its most complex movements and dressiest designs. It is therefore the perfect model to showcase Breitling’s new tourbillon complication. The movement for the Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42, caliber B21, was developed in collaboration with Swiss complications specialist La Joux-Perret. Uniquely, it positions the tourbillon carriage at 12 o’clock, rather than the usual 6 o’clock position, which is supplanted by an hour counter – being a Breitling, it is also a chronograph.

There are three variations, each named for one of the company’s founding fathers. The Leon Breitling model has an 18k red gold case with a silver dial and brown, semi-shiny alligator strap ($57,000). The Gaston Breitling edition pairs 18k white gold with an anthracite dial and black alligator strap ($57,000). The Willy Breitling version is platinum, with an admiral-blue dial and black alligator strap ($67,000). Each watch features the stylized square pushers and Arabic numerals that are hallmarks of the Premier line.

The Willy version gets the fancy platinum case in honour of his enormous contribution to the Breitling legacy. It was under his leadership, from 1932 to 1979, that the Breitling chronograph was perfected and then elevated from a utilitarian tool watch to a stylish accessory that looked as good as it worked. Conceived while the world was still in the grip of the Second World War, the Premier collection was Willy Breitling’s antidote to austerity. It was a time when wristwatches were professional tools used mainly by pilots, navigators and engineers. His Premier line, launched in 1943, maintained all the function of his professional chronographs but were enriched with form. The Premier B21 Chronograph Tourbillon 42 is a direct descendent of that vision, which culminated in the Premier line.

While the base of the movement is not 100% exclusive to brand, it was enhanced and finished in-house, and fitted it with a custom rotor. Breitling also tested the caliber to chronometer standards. Apart from COSC-certification, this included a set of rigorous tests to ensure its perfect functioning. It is thus considered an in-house caliber, and it is the first modern tourbillon in the Premier range. While it takes Breitling’s price points up a notch, the prices, it must be noted, are very competitive for a tourbillon chronograph.