Brioni Fall 2023 Menswear Collection

Brioni’s Norbert Stumpfl is apparently a happy designer: “I have the most excellent team of artisans behind me, and what they are able to achieve is a dream come true for me,” he said at today’s presentation. He has every reason to feel so elated, as what Brioni stands for is an idea of luxury which is as exquisite as it is private and understated. “As a designer, I don’t need to scream,” he said.

Every season, the unbelievable quality of fabrications and execution seems to reach new heights, a sort of limitless research whose results never cease to amaze. For fall, cashmeres were proposed in varieties so weightless, a whisper probably would be heavier. Vicuñas and alpacas were more ethereal than a passing cloud; deerskin, suede and nappa were as soft to the touch as the skin of a newborn. Going through a Brioni collection makes for an almost preternatural sensorial experience.

The same sense of rarity and sophistication was expressed in the subtlest of color sensibilities, with tones so suave they brought to mind Caravaggio’s chiaroscuro. No wonder Brioni is a Roman house: if there’s a place where the light is glorious, resplendent of every possible hue from gold to amber to topaz, that’s Rome. Stumpfl captured it in the sensuous fall palette, which emphasized the ease and fluidity of the soft tailoring that Brioni masters. This season, the play on proportion was subtle as usual, with a tad more room for enhanced comfort in longer jackets, fuller trousers, lighter and rounder shoulders.

Women were offered the same supple, luxurious options, with enveloping wrap coats, elegant elongated skirts, classy evening smokings made in the same exquisite fabrications. Stoles and capes added a charming touch and a couture spirit. “Brioni’s style is almost invisible, not overpowering,” said Stumpfl. “It gives you comfort and confidence at the same time. We definitely enjoy spoiling our customers.”