British Virgin Islands boating heaven has something for everyone

Article content

Sea, sand, wind, delicious food and friendly people to help further enhance the relaxing getaway — British Virgin Islands has it all.

Article content

Located to the east of Puerto Rico with the North Atlantic Ocean to the north and the Caribbean Sea to the south, BVI is a British overseas territory comprised of more than 50 smaller islands and cays. Among them are a wide range of tropical paradise experiences.

Article content

The largest of the islands is Tortola, home to the capital Road Town, with Virgin Gorda, Anegada and Jost Van Dyke being the other main islands.

The islands have different vibes and unique offerings. And even though BVI is a beautiful place for boating (being dubbed, after all, the “sailing capital of the Caribbean”), one seasoned sailor said the best experiences can be found by going ashore and meeting people.

So with that in mind we set off on our adventure from Tortola’s Nanny Cay Resort and Marina aboard ‘Good Vibrations’ (cue the Beach Boys OR Marky Mark and the Funky Bunch!), a Navigare Yachting Saba 50 catamaran that served as our home for the next week.

Article content

Here are some of the highlights unearthed on our voyage.

JOST VAN DYKE

Any watering hole with the slogan “a sunny place for shady people” immediately has our attention!

The Soggy Dollar Bar is situated in a prime spot on the gorgeous and aptly named beach at White Bay. It is said the bar is named for the condition of patrons’ money after they swam from their moored boats to the beach for a drink. Soggy Dollar is legendary for its Painkiller cocktail, which originated in the 1970s. Our barkeep Simone didn’t spill all the drink’s secrets, however, as she expertly mixed dark rum, cream of coconut, pineapple and orange juice, topping it with freshly grated Grenadian nutmeg.

It’s a story almost as good as the drink. We savoured ours while enjoying the view with our feet in the gorgeous white sand.

Article content

Article content

A delicious Caribbean-inspired dinner was had next door at Hendo’s Hideout (try the chorizo-stuffed chicken and key lime pie), and then we capped our night in nearby Great Harbour with drinks and dancing at Foxy’s Tamarind Bar. Our guide told us it’s one of the most famous beach bars in the world and it was easy to see why fun-seekers flock to it. The bar is decked out with memorabilia from all over the world such as sports team banners, country flags and stickers, and the vibe is both lively and relaxed.

Don’t leave Jost Van Dyke without checking out the Bubbly Pool, a natural rock-formed bath off Diamond Point made with frothy ocean waves that splash through a narrow opening from the bay. (TIP: Bring your water shoes as it is pretty rocky.)

Article content

ANEGADA

Whereas most of BVI’s islands are volcanic in origin and have a hilly, rugged terrain, at only 28 feet above sea level Anegada (which means “flooded” in Spanish) is flat and composed of coral and limestone. The 15-square-mile (38-square-km) island is the BVI’s second largest yet is home to fewer than 200 residents.

The topography alone makes the northernmost island worth the trek but Anegada is also famous for its lobster, and hosts the three-day Anegada Lobster Fest each November. At Lobster Trap — a picturesque spot both day and night with its main dining area perched over the water (be sure to catch the sunset at dinner!), we sampled several lobster dishes (the spring rolls were a big hit), and followed that up with lobster ice cream (yum!) at the nearby Wonky Dog.

Article content

One phenomenon not to be missed — and easy to spot — is the Anegada Conch Mounds off the island’s east end.

For more than 200 years, anglers have been adding to this graveyard first started by indigenous residents of the island. We got up close with Kelly’s Land and Sea Tours, our guide Johnny ferreting us out to view the mounds, snorkel and to find conch at a reef. Back on the boat, he banged two shells together to dislodge the mollusk from sucking, explained the carving process in detail, and then prepared us a delicious fresh ceviche using his special ingredient (Spoiler: It was Tostitos salsa).

As for our empty shell, I had the honour of adding it to the mounds (OK, with my throw it was added to the edge of the mounds.)

VIRGIN GORDA

Article content

At the southwestern tip of the island is the geological wonder of The Baths National Park, home to giant granite boulders — some as large as 12 metres in diameter — that form sheltered sea pools, grottos and arches on the beach’s edge.

The adventurous can traverse a trail through the boulders that includes climbing wooden ladders down crevices, using rope rails and doing some wading through water to eventually land you at horseshoe-shaped Devil’s Bay beach where you can snorkel or relax under an umbrella.

SABA ROCK

Approaching Saba Rock, in the North Sound off of Virgin Gorda, you feel like you’re going to a magical, exclusive island — which is fitting since the nine-room resort is a hop, skip and a swim from the Richard Branson-owned Necker Island.

Article content

The Canadian general manager, William Coutts, told us whether it’s for overnight or day trips, people come to Saba Rock for a break from their boats, and there’s plenty for them to do. Not only is it a playground for water sports such as kiteboarding, kayaking, and eFoiling (was pretty cool watching guests swoop past above the water on the hydrofoil surfboards powered by electricity), it’s also a great spot for dining, having a few cocktails and mingling with other nautical adventurers.

SCRUB ISLAND

Located about two and a half kilometres off Tortola, this private paradise is home to Scrub Island Resort, Spa and Marina. What a beautiful retreat! The resort has 52 guest rooms and suites as well as two-to-six-bedroom villas and all are ocean view. We stayed in a villa and it was a luxurious oasis complete with a full kitchen, huge terrace and private pool. Boaters who dock at the 55-slip marina get access to all the amenities. Scrub Island has a stunning spa, 24-7 fitness centre, boutique, market and deli, and three pools including a slide. There are two secluded beaches with one hosting a buffet, live music, dancing and fire every Wednesday night after the manager’s cocktail hour. We lunched at Donovan’s Reef Marina Bar & Grill and had an exquisite dinner at fine-dining restaurant Cardamom & Co.

Article content

It was the perfect way to cap a few days of island hopping through BVI’s majestic sapphire waters. We can now wholeheartedly confirm that the sea is the place to be!

IF YOU GO

There are no direct flights from Canada to the BVI. I flew from Toronto to Miami and took a connection to St. Thomas, U.S. Virgin Islands, then a one-hour ferry to Road Town. American Airlines now offers direct flights from Miami to Tortola’s Terrence B. Lettsome Airport (EIS) from November to April.

Vehicles drive on the left in the BVI, like in the U.K., but the currency is the U.S. dollar. BVI is on Atlantic Standard Time all year.

Non-residents over the age of two must pay an environmental and tourism levy of $10 on arrival in BVI. If departing the BVI by ferry, there is a departure tax of $20 per person over the age of five.

For 50 years, the BVI Spring Regatta & Sailing Festival (bvispringregatta.org) has been bringing dozens of teams to the islands for a week of competition and good times. The next instalment will be held April 1-7, 2024.

Find out more at bvitourism.com.

[email protected]

Article content