After an extensive spring 2022 womenswear collection, Calvin Luo is thinking more concisely for men’s. At just 12 looks, the lineup is a distillation of his best ideas around ’70s tailoring and sharp color palettes. “I enjoy it when my womenswear and menswear collections relate to each other,” he said. That they do: Fastenings, fabrics, and an overall crispness are shared between the collections.
Retro tailoring and bright colors can read as essentials in his womenswear collections, but for men, a fuzzy pink bomber or a cropped leather harness signals something more subversive or radical. “It is more about gender disruption rather than styles,” Luo affirms. “As womenswear embraced elements of menswear, men’s fashion also became more gender neutral in the 1970s; it got bolder. This idea was the starting point of the collection.”
It’s an idea that seems to have taken hold in Shanghai and other cosmopolitan Chinese cities, in fact. Vogue Runway’s own street style coverage shows a move towards more unexpected combinations of style, garment, and textures. Men, women, whoever—Luo’s sleek new clothes are for everyone.
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