This season, Spanish designer Carlota Barrera evoked Asturias, her homeland: “I’m from the north. It seemed interesting to me to go back to those seaside roots, and to develop the collection from a less romantic point of view, but with something more related to the solitude of the night,” she said.
Upheaval, the video she made with director Pablo Curto, is inspired by Luchino Visconti’s film La Terra Trema. “It’s about those night scenes where you can’t hear anything but the sound of the nets, the clothes rubbing against each other, the wind and the water. The collection is also a tribute to the women who make the nets. They build something basic for fishing, but apparently they are not given the value they deserve,” Barrera explained.
From that starting point, Barrera twisted her signature tailoring, updating it, for example, by layering rope trousers on top of other pants, or by combining workwear and fishing details, such as accessories with shells and carabiner hooks. For materials, she used natural textiles, such as cotton, tencel, and wool, with technical fabrics made of recycled polyester. “We worked with what we had leftover from other collections. For me, that’s the real sustainability,” she said.
Navy blue, moss green, and black formed the basis of the palette. Reflective finishes, beige or yellow (as in a fisherman’s mackintosh), give light to a proposal of high-waist trousers, tank tops with cut-outs, and oversize garments.
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