Casa Angelina: A Delicious, Sophisticated Stay In The Cliffs Beyond Positano

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One of the most popular destinations in the world, Italy’s Amalfi Coast inspires dreams of sun-drenched days on boats, and pasta-fueled dinners in glittering postcard villages by night. While the social media star of the region remains Positano, insiders know the best views of the fishing village-cum-yachtie hub is from quieter Praiano. To soak up the views paired to some of the coast’s best wine and food, I booked at stay at Casa Angelina during June this past summer.

Originating in Napoli, I reserved a ride through MyDayTrip. Preferring to enjoy the views and avoid navigating the notoriously narrow crowded road, the site sourced an excellent local drivers with regional knowledge for the provide point-to-point service.

Along the way, our driver shared his passion for pizza, described the differences in “milk mountain” cheeses, and took us for our first lemon granita with a view of the Sorrentine Coast. We curved past Positano, stopping for a snapshot, then carried on to Praiano.

Casa Angelina attracts clientele appreciative of clean contemporary design, myself included. With its all-white décor, I liked its modern point of difference against a sea of traditional hotels. The property boasts 42 guest rooms and suites across two different wings. The towers are connected by a common lounge and bar and serene pool trimmed in a lemon tree pergola. All rooms, no matter the category, from classic, romantic, to junior suites and the fabulous Eaudesea residences in former fishermen homes, feature sea views and most have a terrace or balcony.

Furnishings come from local artisans. The headboards, bedside tables, and desks designed by architect Marco De Luca, were made by craftsmen in Sorrento. The ceramic floor tiles were designed by Daria Scuotto in Vietri Sul Mare, the last ceramic artist in the area.

While I selected the property for its art and design, I equally wanted to experience the hotel’s highly regarded food and beverage offerings, from limoncello mojitos at Seascape Cocktail Bar to a multi-course repast at Un Piano Nel Cielo, the property’s fine dining venue.

I had a sunset reservation to taste Leopoldo Elefante’s food. As the executive chef of Casa Angelina, Elefante has led the kitchen’s culinary direction since 2017. A food writer and colleague recommended the experience, especially with wine pairings from the famously extensive list of Amalfi and Campanian labels.

“The wine of the Amalfi Coast is very distinct,” said the sommelier, after he took our water order from the “water book.” We opted for a bottle of sparkling from the Dolomites for its clean taste and low saline content, as per the description.

For wine, I asked to sample only local specialties, as in 100 miles local. He had just the producer. “Our wines don’t taste like anything else in the world because we use grapes native to the terrain which are kissed by the salty sea breeze, thrive in our volcanic soil, and soak up the heat of the sun” he continued with romantic prose.

He came back with a bottle of Marisa Cuomo. I wanted to visit this estate, located 15 minutes away in a vertical slot above the sea in Furore, but lacked a car and the will (or wallet) to pay a taxi 80 euros for the privilege.

We tasted a few more Amalfi wines, including a blend of Falanghina and Biancolella, both notable for their acidity and mineral structure.

In fact, hardly any international grapes have infiltrated the region; vineyard parcels, considered ancient-world tiny even for a vertiginous land-poor region, are planted almost exclusively to indigenous varieties.

Moving through the menu, we sampled local produce and fresh-caught fish still glistening with ocean dew. A stunning display of crudo spanned a briny oyster, succulent sweet langoustine, and butter-soft white fish carpaccio paired perfectly with the electric zip of the Bianco blend.

A silky, rich 36-egg yolk tagliolini tossed with a shot of Amalfi lemon and coiled into a nest dotted with prawns and dill, left me questioning every pasta dish I’d ever eaten in America.

Ending on a high note of limoncello, we shuttled off to our pillowy bed to slumber and digest, knowing breakfast the following morning would bring another exercise in exquisite eating.

Casa Angelina’s breakfast is renowned among its loyal clients. Tables deep in sweet delights, from lemon ricotta cakes, donuts, and muffins, cheese and charcuterie, fruits and jams and yogurts, complement a menu of cooked-to-order eggs and other house specialties.

I expected to eat at Casa Angelina, and we did. Fortunately, the 250 stone stairs down to the private beach club on the water, helped me whittle the calories or at least break even.

Casa Angelina, Via Gennaro Capriglione, 147, 84010 Praiano SA, Italy

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