The Catena Zapata family has been making wine in Argentina for four generations. This 2023, they marked another milestone— the opening of their first restaurant in their 120-year history. Angélica Cocina Maestra, located in their iconic La Pirámide vineyard, in Lujan de Cuyo, Mendoza, was named after Angélica Zapata, the family matriarch and a pioneer of education. It officially opened its doors in February.
It’s not surprising that wine is front and center at the 38-seater space, with a concept that the family describes as “Wine-First” curated by wine chefs: third generation vintner Nicolás Catena, managing director Laura Catena, and wine director Alejandro Vigil. The current menu offerings are 10 course-pairings of either traditional— progressing from fresh, fruit-forward, high-acid wines to heavier reds— to what they call, ‘roller coaster,’ wherein whites and reds are intermixed, going back and forth between lighter and more decadent dishes.
The food pairings, listed in a smaller font on the menu to give prominence to the wines, were selected either to complement the wine (maridaje a favor) or to pair against (maridaje en contra). For instance, Catena Zapata Malbec Argentino, an old vine Malbec, could be traditionally paired with a steak, allowing the fruit to dominate towards a long finish; while the D.V. Catena Chardonnay could be paired against sweetbreads and herbs, to highlight the wine’s citric and herbal properties.
In the “rollercoaster” (montaña rusa) menu, the meal could begin with cabernet sauvignon before moving onto chardonnay and introducing the sparkling wine, midway through the meal.
The space, designed by architect Ricardo Zumel, was inspired by an Italian villa, with spaces for entertainment and people to gather and dine together— envisioned by Nicolás Catena.
The restaurant was built in the basement of an old winery from 1920, with hand-cut stones, handmade bricks, recycled wood beams on the ceiling, wooden floor made from used barrels— all simultaneously highlighting the aesthetics inspired by the family’s Italian ancestry and their home country of Argentina.
For more information, visit the Catena Zapata website.
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