Charm And Creative Cuisine Are Hallmarks At Justine’s On Hudson In New York’s Greenwich Village

Charm is the soft antidote to bombastic extravagance, the way Ravel’s “Mother Goose” suite is to his “Bolero,” and for its size, atmosphere and comfort, the new Justine’s on Hudson in the West Village has charm to burn. When you enter you get the feeling that everyone is from the neighborhood, with a contingent at the walnut bar with brass rail where they can sample wines by the glass or have a full meal.

There are only 30 seats, with a few tables outside, and a very pleasant table for four against the window from which the passage of people in their summer clothes makes for a colorful, moving tableau. All tables have banquettes, black marble tops, votive candles and exquisite wineglasses.

Mirrors to the rear open of the space, a Murano chandelier glows and the warm tones of coffee and rust brown add to the sense of civilized dining, as does a choice of music that doesn’t intrude on the conversation (at least until nine o’clock, when it gets louder).

Justine’s is named after Justine Rosenthal, daughter of wine importer Neal Rosenthal, her partner here who oversees an eclectic wine list from more than 50 estates with a sensible price range, with wines by the glass starting at $9.

Chef Jeanne Jordan has a fine sense of proportion in the number of dishes she can make successfully out of a small kitchen. Born in the Philippines and raised in New Jersey, she had been chef de cuisine at Galen Zamora’s much-missed Mas Farmhouse. And shows a deft hand balancing comfort food with refinement.

Her cooking is geared to the seasons, and right now, with the crushing heat outside, a cool, creamy whipped duck liver mousse ($28) with spiced pineapples on brioche toast makes perfect sense. A truffled spring roll ($24) with pork, chives and cod roe aïoli gives a nod towards Jordan’s Philippine heritage, as does a refreshing fluke crudo ($27) with lychee, lime and touch of wasabi. Adobo quail ($22) draws its flavor from grilled onions, egg and curry leaves, though one evening the bird was overcooked, as quail so easily is.

By the way, it’s so nice to find excellent bread served at the meal’s start, rather than have to fork over eight bucks for it, as has become annoyingly elsewhere. What early on became a signature dish on the menu is the Bea brand whole wheat spaghetti abundantly laced with bottarga, bacon chile and Parmigiano ($27), which you’ll be informed is very spicy. Believe it: It is peppery, indeed, but really delicious. Corn risotto was outstanding ($31), touched with garlic, spinach and curry leaf for added flavor and texture.

One so rarely sees skate on a menu anywhere, so Jordan is confident that hers will win people over. Cuddled with bacon and sided with a seasoned bean ragoût and quail eggs ($38), the skate’s slivers of flesh absorb it all with a velvety result and high flavor.

The roasted Pandan chicken ($32) was inspired by a dish Jordan’s mother made for her as a child, one she serves her own children now, and it is exemplary for its juiciness, its crisp skin scented with pandan leaf and its paring with richly buttered pomme puree, truffles and black garlic.

There are four desserts, the best of which is the whipped corn pudding with blueberries and pistachios ($18) and the affogato ($17), the simple Italian sweet made by pouring strong espresso over vanilla ice cream. There is also the lagniappe of a rich chocolate pudding beneath. If you want to spend an extra seven dollars you can get black truffle cream, but vanilla is a far better choice. Miso caramel does nothing for an otherwise good chocolate tart ($18).

Prices seem on the high side for appetizers, but the proportions of the main courses—you’ll take some of the chicken home—softens the tab.

Because of its size, Justine’s doesn’t need a large crew, and it has two sommeliers, including manager Lee Fleming, but on our visit there was only one waiter, and things went slowly when the house filled up.

On a warm summer night, it was a delight to enter the cooling interior of Justine’s, as I imagine it will be when the blasts of winter cold pushes you through the door for relief. For its size, comfort and charm, Justine’s is exemplary as the kind of restaurant that helps maintain the quiet tenor of the West Village.

JUSTINE’S ON HUDSON

518 Hudson Street

646-649-5271

Open Tues.-Sat. for dinner.