Getting a whiff of nicely aged cabs and pinots is a lot like wandering the stacks of the Boston Public Library, breathing in the scent of history and wondering what it would be like to meet the authors. At the Santa Cruz Mountains Grand Tasting, attendees could meet the winemakers who crafted these well-aged treasures.
The Grand Tasting, held on a blustery day in April at Saratoga’s Mountain Winery literally blew people away, on both the atmospheric and vinous levels. About 150 VIP guests got to feast on a charcuterie board assembled by Chef Ross Hanson of Oak & Rye, and a great spread by Kirsten Ponza, formerly executive chef at Chaminade. VIPs also had the opportunity to dive into library wines, which can be profoundly satisfying or profound disappointments. We experienced both.
Taking the crown was the 1999 Silver Mountain Chardonnay, which winemaker Jerold O’Brien bravely opened with a corkscrew while Bill Cooper of Saratoga’s Cooper Garrod waved his ah-so and suggested he might rather be using that.
As he poured this stunning chardonnay from his Los Gatos winery, O’Brien noted, “People say that chardonnays and white wines in general don’t age like reds. But they don’t know the Santa Cruz Mountains.”
Cooper Garrod’s 2000 RV’s Fine Claret could stand up and salute for many more years, as could the 2014 Ridge Monte Bello, which still has lots of green notes to keep it fresh. The 2012 Mount Eden cab has many miles to go, getting better as it sleeps. The 2011 House Family Cabernet is just now starting to show melted chocolate edges, which makes it even more attractive.
The cat’s meow, though, was the 2005 Kathryn Kennedy Cabernet, just as smooth as a silk parachute landing on a warm sandy beach, which we all wished were on by the end of the afternoon.
Testarossa, the Los Gatos winery known for its breadth and depth of wines from the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA, was a major exhibitor at the annual Santa Lucia Highlands Gala, held at the Mer Soleil barrel room on May 13.
It was no surprise to see longtime Testarossa winemaker Bill Brosseau in attendance. But it was a surprise to see Rombauer pouring, positioned right next to another superstar brand, ROAR, owned by Gary and Rosella Franscioni. At the adjacent table was Tsar Nicoulai Caviar, so you can well imagine the bottleneck that developed.
According to Richie Allen, VP of viticulture and winemaking at Rombauer, devotees of Rombauer chardonnay whose palates don’t gravitate toward zin and cab needed something red to fill their glasses, and that was pinot noir. The Napa winery devotes over 60% of its production to chardonnay, with sauvignon blanc, zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and merlot rounding out the portfolio.
The solid and well-made 2021 Rombauer SLH Pinot Noir is sourced from Garys’, Soberanes, Rosella’s and Sierra Mar Vineyards, as well as Lemoravo, farmed by grower Kirk Williams.
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