Chemical peels for next-level glow and smoothness

It’s hard to know what’s worse, the word “chemical” or the word “peel”. But if you’re seeking a serious anti-ageing punch then nothing compares to chemical peels, especially if you don’t simply want to paper over the cracks when it comes to acne scars, hyperpigmentation and dull, deflated skin.

That said there are several types of chemical peel to consider. The first is a gentle at-home peel that is a step up from your gritty exfoliators and involves releasing a slew of familiar skincare acids – including glycolic, salicylic and mandelic – to buff away dead skin cells.

Then there are in-clinic peels that are confined to a dermatologist’s office or specialist medi-spa and range from light to deep in concentration. These are higher strength peels that are customised for different skincare concerns – from acne, to glow boosting and a more even skin tone. There are two caveats, though: they will involve an element of downtime and, potentially, pain relief.

Ahead we asked the experts to break down exactly what at-home and professional peels entail so you can decide which resurfacing route you’d like to go down.

What is a chemical peel?

Put simply, a chemical peel involves applying an acid solution to the face to resurface the skin, remove dead skin cells and stimulate the growth of new ones for improved texture and tone.

It’s easy to get lost in the jargon so while at-home products contain the word “peel”, they shouldn’t be confused with in-clinic chemical peels.

At-home versions are essentially acid exfoliators that contain acids at 6% to 30% concentrations. “Over-the-counter peel products are of course cheaper and milder than clinical strength peels,” says Amar Suchde, medical aesthetic practitioner and founder of AMS Aesthetics. “They will help to exfoliate, unclog pores and brighten the skin tone rather than actually result in peeling. These products are best used as an occasional boost between professional peel treatments and should be applied no more than twice weekly to avoid irritation.”

At-home peels are also excellent for boosting the benefits of other products. By clearing away dead skin cells and other debris, they remove any roadblocks that prevent your skincare actives from penetrating effectively. This is especially true in winter and also with age, when your skin’s natural shedding process slows down.

Professional chemical peels, on the other hand, are more intense, deliver more transformative results and will require an element of downtime depending on the strength. “By removing the outer layers of the skin, patients can expect clearer, hydrated skin with a healthy glow,” Dr Hiba Injibar, consultant dermatologist at the Dermasurge Clinic, notes.

How does a chemical peel at home work?

Regular exfoliation rids the skin of dead skin cells and stubborn grime, making it a core tenet of clear, radiant skin. For this reason, at-home peels, used once a week, are a step up from your regular gritty scrub or exfoliating cleanser. They work by gently dissolving the bonds that keep dead skin cells clinging to the top layer of skin. Once cut loose, these cells fall off – hence the peel-like effect.