Christian Cowan Spring 2023 Ready-to-Wear Collection

There were two looks in Christian Cowan’s presentation this evening that took up the entire catwalk. The designer’s full-skirted ball gowns—one in denim, another in hot pink silk taffeta—grazed the feet of attendees as they came down the runway, and the theatrical feathered hats were just as extra-wide. Subtle these looks were not, but fun and whimsical they were: Even the most stone-faced guests couldn’t help but crack a smile at these outlandish, maximal clothes.
It’s no coincidence that Cowan was in an over-the-top mood. This season, he found himself thinking back to his early days as a designer while studying at London’s Central Saint Martins, and he wanted to recapture the playful, experimental energy he had as a student there. “I wanted to have fun and bring more theater to my shows,” he said. “Fashion first and foremost should be fun. It’s therapy, and it’s changed my life.”

One could never accuse Cowan of not having fun. His clothes—which often toe the line between tacky and luxurious—are always party-ready, and spring included plenty of dresses that are ready for a night out. The closing look, a slinky silver sequined gown, would look good on just about anyone if tailored right; the black sequin gown with a red feathered trim (and matching sleeves) was for the more daring. “The color palette was feather and sequins,” said Cowan. “And leopard, which is my favorite of the animal prints.”

Sure, most of Cowan’s clothes aren’t for everyone. The bodycon minis had big bows at the bust, and the denim minis had cutouts exposing the belly button and hips; they’re clearly designed for the young, as was the rainbow-hued jacket and trouser set. Cowan says he was pushing himself out of his comfort zone in terms of the palette this season. “I like to look back on what I’ve done and critique why it sucks,” he said. “I felt like I was approaching color in a really safe way, especially with monochromatic looks, and that’s not intentional design; it’s fun to mix every print and color.”

Cowan also wanted his daytime pieces to pack a punch. The sequined rugby sweaters certainly achieved that, as did the spunky shoes, which were a collaboration with Crocs. His rubber clogs, which will be for sale, were adorned with chains and ribbons that can be detached and worn as jewelry or hair clips. All these ideas may seem a tad wacky to fit into one single presentation, but Cowan said that was the exact point. He’s done restricting his creativity. “Often when I do a collection, I’ll do a sketch and then it becomes a watered-down version,” he said. “This time, it was all my sketches.”