Coming Full Circle In Sedona’s Hottest Restaurant

In March, 2020, there was a highly anticipated dinner date on my calendar, a meal scheduled at Sedona’s lovely Mariposa. Then, suddenly, the pandemic shut down everything and that feast never happened. Until last week.

Flashback to Before Times

My husband, John, and I were smack in the middle of the second year of our grand tour of the U.S. in a 23-foot motorhome when we pulled into Sedona in March 2020. We had just spent a few memorable days exploring the North Rim of the Grand Canyon and as we headed south toward Sedona, we got the news that schools were closing in Arizona, a signal that this mysterious coronavirus was serious stuff. The word pandemic started to appear in headlines.

Still, the sense of true alarm was still on a slow simmer. There was so much we didn’t know.

That afternoon, I had an interview scheduled with chef/restaurateur Lisa Dahl. We met in Mariposa’s dining room and while there were the typical questions about the chef’s background in the culinary arts and vision for the future, a sense of uncertainty loomed. She was on the verge of opening her latest project, the upscale Butterfly Burger, and it looked as if that rollout would be 86’d.

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The politically progressive town of Sedona was ahead of the rest of the state in shutting down restaurants in an effort to stop the spread of the highly contagious virus. Instead of returning for dinner in that magnificent dining room, I ate that night back at the campsite, feeling sad and uncertain about the future.

Fast forward to November 2021

It’s strange to look back over the past year and a half and notice how much has changed. Working from home has shaken up the real estate market as some urban hubs clear out, for instance.

Yet, one thing remains constant as we continue move toward a new normal: people love to dine at restaurants.

This contention is anecdotal, noticed on social media posts from hot spots. It’s once again nearly impossible to book a table at many red-hot restaurants and Mariposa definitely falls into that category. I’m grateful I was able to snag a rezzie on a weeknight during the busy holiday season.

I’d worked up an appetite hiking one of the challenging trails that wind through the magnificent red rocks that make this city so special. An impressive chunk of that picturesque landscape dominates the stunning view from Mariposa, the restaurant perched on a rise just off Highway 89. It’s a vista that looks like a painting and it’s been the colorful backdrop to countless selfies.

Inside the restaurant’s massive front doors, the greeting is gracious, the service warm and attentive, the menu packed with tempting options. This Latin-inspired grill cooks much of its meat-y creations over mesquite and the faint fragrance of that smoke perfumes the air.

We’re seated on the expansive patio, a screen-in room where heaters blaze from above and the temps are on the slightly chilly side. That’s just fine by me. I’m triple vaxxed, but I still prefer to dine al fresco when possible.

It’s so hard to decide…

The menu offers so many compelling choices, starting with a lineup of tapas that could easily fill a table and make for a fabulous meal. Main courses lean toward the classic steakhouse tradition but with elevated finishes. Filet mignon is sauced with a chipotle-gorgonzola combo that’s a memorable mashup of creamy and smoky-heat.

Chef Lisa was in the house and offered to put together some of her personal faves, so, yes, please and thanks.

Portobello and poblano empanadas served alongside a brilliant chimichurri made for a spectacular start, the pastry enveloping the savory stuffing perfectly tender and flaky. And the Pulpo Parilla that followed was one of the finest preparations of grilled octopus I’ve ever experienced, exceptionally tender and flavorful. The chickpea puree and fennel slaw accompaniments made for a pretty plate and proved fine complements to the pulpo.

A velvety curry cauliflower bisque was next, a creation the chef calls “the elixir of life.” It’s part of the chef’s commitment to showcase plant-based dishes, many starring produce grown by local farmers. Right on trend.

The feast would have been complete at this point, but no. Time for the star attractions. And after a couple bites of the butter-tender filet and an outstanding lamb chop and those over-the-top lobster mashed potatoes, I’m so happy I tear up. This is the kind of fine dining experience I’ve sorely missed. The incredible food, a room full of congenial chatter, a well-trained staff. This is why we love dining out, right?

I later learned that many of the dishes we enjoyed are featured in Dahl’s upcoming cookbook, a project that took a decade to research and write. Like many cookbooks on the shelves these days, A Romance With Food is part memoir, part journey of discovery. It will be released Feb. 1, 2022.

Of course, we’re not leaving without checking out the desserts. How about something light? Like the coconut flan. OK, it was every bit as decadent as you’d expect and the vow to have just one or two bites quickly evaporated until the plate was empty. Mmmm.

After a wonderful evening, the answer is an enthusiastic yes, it was definitely worth the long wait to get a table at Mariposa. I’ll definitely be back.

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