Do sustainable London Fashion Week designers actually exist?

In an event dedicated to newness (considering the very definition of fashion is that it’s transient and trend-led) do sustainable London Fashion Week designers actually exist? This season there were moments of optimism and innovation that hinted at a more considered future for an industry which is often called out for being one of the world’s most polluting.

Copenhagen Fashion Week, which wrapped up last month, has set out a list of 18 sustainability targets for any designer that wants to be part of the event, including ensuring at least half of the collection is made from materials that are certified, upcycled or recycled.

As it stands, the British Fashion Council hasn’t adopted this tight a regime, “London Fashion Week hosts a mixture of established and emerging brands and as result of this, setting a one-size-fits-all sustainability standard is not feasible without alienating smaller businesses,” Caroline Rush CEO at the BFC told GLAMOUR. “That being said, our work with Copenhagen Fashion Week’s Sustainability Action Plan has shaped our Minimum and Bronze Standards for BFC NEWGEN designer participants. Each of the Minimum and Bronze standards are mapped against the UN’s 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs) and apply to seven focus areas of a garment’s life cycle – strategic direction, design, smart material choices, manufacturing & distribution, working conditions, consumer engagement, and fashion shows. We also encourage everyone within our network to take tangible action by committing to initiatives such as the Race to Zero, joining the UNFCC and The Fashion Pact and supporting the Sustainable Markets Initiative. Through the Institute of Positive Fashion Forum, an annual action-focused event, we can track progress and monitor commitments made by our network.”

That strategy seems to be working. The most impactful designers this season took major strides – or reiterated their sustainable viewpoint – on ethical creation this season. Caroline drew our attention to Ray Chu’s biodegradable tea leaf leather and Jakke’s vegan leather, both future-proof options and these are the designers that took sustainability seriously for autumn winter 2023…