Dsquared2 Fall 2022 Menswear Collection

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Before the kick-off of this show—the first they’ve had since you-know-what—Dean and Dan Caten came out on the runway in matching hoodies and delivered a pep talk. “We welcome each and every one of you here today, because today for us is a big deal. And the big deal is this room and all of you in it. Thank you for supporting us and our decision to do a physical show. For us this is a big step forward—we’re alive, we’re excited, and it feels good to be back.”

It felt good to be back in their audience, too. And according to conversational post-show consensus it wasn’t only the Catens’ recent absence that made our hearts grow fond of this collection. This season these seasoned mixologists’ long-refined recipe of apparently aggressive clashes of context—full of sensational contrasts but also spiked with slyly harmonious adjacencies—was applied to a “hippy hiker” base sprinkled with dashes of business-suiting, a soupcon of punky tartan, and a fabulous dash of sequin. A collaboration with Invicta allowed for the insertion of sometimes parodically technical backpacks and bandolier packs packed with primary color, heaped with zippable sections, and dripping with carabiniers and cordelettes. There was high altitude camp in landscape-patterned sequined “fleeces” and patterned shorts.

On the way out I bumped into soccer superstar Zlatan Ibrahimovic, who is based here these days and moonlights as a brand ambassador for DSquared2 while continuing to bang in the goals for AC Milan. How was he going? “Good! I am doing what I do best. That’s something that makes you feel alive. And going to this show makes you feel alive too.” Ibra was on target, yet again. Backstage the Catens said they would be back next month for womenswear. After two years away, they don’t plan to let another fashion season slip by if they can help it.

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