DYNE Combines Ancient History And Futurism In One Cohesive Symbolic Collection

Two worlds collide in Italian British jeweler Sarah Ysabel Narici’s collection. Born in Milan, to a Singaporean British mother, Narici combines ancient history and hyper-futurism, creating dynamic statement pieces for DYNE. She attended Central St. Martins with a foundation course in jewelry design, along with fellow classmates and Ananya Malhotra of ANANYA and Bea Bongiasca , graduating in 2013 alongside them. Narici’s went on to obtain training as a goldsmith and business acumen at prestigious and diverse houses such as Stephen Webster, Marina B. and Lorraine Schwartz.

A perfectionist by nature, she finally launched her DYNE (named after her mother’s maiden name) in 2022 when she felt like all the pieces came together and she could proudly show a collection that pushes boundaries in the jewelry space with textural interest and forms reminiscent of strong mythological goddesses whose strength and power are inspiration for women today. Striking gemstones and diamonds set off a richness that enhances bold sculptural pieces that give the nod to the past but are imbued with an alluring presence.

Here we talk to Narici’s about the path to creating the collection that has, in the past year, been featured in the leading magazines and is beginning to be carried by the top international retailers:

What was the first piece of Jewelry you owned?

SYN: “My first serious piece of jewelry is an art deco diamond brooch passed down through four generations of my family, starting with my great grandmother to me. It is very precious to me because my great-grandmother managed to keep it safe throughout her years held captive in a prison of war camp in Sumatra during WW2. “

When did you realize you had an interest in jewelry?

SYN: “I always loved miniatures, from dolls houses to tiny intricate carvings and I also had fun making 3d collages. The actual realization, however, didn’t come until I was seventeen and visited the jewelry department at Central Saint Martins College of Art. “

You then Attended Central Saint Martin, London. Is this when you started creating jewelry?

SYN: “Yes. I was in the program and this is when I started to find my voice and work out the type of jewelry I wanted to create.”

How long have you been working on your brand and did you do any research /material development before launching the collection?

SYN: “Doing research is a continuous part of my work and practice, and when you go from a starting point to a brand, everything is inspiration. I always knew I would create my own line, it was not this one moment of putting a collection together but rather a process of accessing the world I had created in my mind and choosing which part to focus on first.”

Talk a little about all the companies you worked for after graduating in 2013 and before launching DYNE is 2022?

SYN: “I have been fortunate to work in some very diverse teams and organizations. Each house had a very different signature, but I learned a lot from working for each brand and was fortunate to have brilliant mentors. Designer-led brands such as Stephen Webster and Marina B, to commercial global-driven brands like McQueen and one-of-a-kind specialists like Lorraine Schwartz, have all helped shape my experience and understanding of the industry in a practical and business sense. “

Are you a bench jeweler as well as hand drawing the designs?

SYN: “I learned the basics of bench work as part of my CSM training – which is a key part of understanding how to design and technically assemble jewelry. Nowadays, I leave the production to the experts. One of my favorite parts of my job is working through my designs with expert craftsmen whose experience spans decades. Jewelry making is an art form. Being fortunate to work with passionate people with years of experience who are willing to take risks and experiment with you is very rewarding.

What are some of your inspirations for the collection?

“I am particularly interested in the tension between history and the future. Growing up in Italy, it was impossible not to absorb culture from ancient times and this curiosity never left me. My father was working with NASA at for a period, which led us to spend a few months in California. This exposure to discussions about outer space and proximity to the space center profoundly impacted me. I think my interest in ancient history is an interest in eternal meaning and beauty-things that existed before us and last beyond us. Every precious object should have that universality shared among the generations. And then it needs that shiny futuristic element – an exciting glimpse of what is yet to come.”

What was your first designs for DYNE?

SYN: “Wedding bands. My goal was to start with something simple enough for everyday wear but then add a unique and authentic component to it. I wanted to hide our anecdotes and personal memories into the ring and immortalize them into something permanent.”

When did you launch DYNE as a complete collection with different capsule groupings?

SYN: “LOVERGLYPHS© is the first capsule collection under DYNE which I unofficially started at the end of Jan 2022.”

What is the concept behind LOVERGLYPH© ?

SYN: “It is a marriage between the past and the future. It is a mix of ancient or archaic symbols and contemporary motifs that we can use to identify with today. It’s a beautiful way to look at the human experience; some things are forever, and others are transient, and it is that nuanced combination that gives every life (and precious object) its unique meaning.”

Do you work with clients to customize the pieces in this capsule collection?

SYN: “Yes. They tell me about themselves and what it is they want to convey and we work a lot of it out through digital technology in which they see their pieces come to life with a mix of different time periods and cultural symbols such as hieroglyphics, Victorian good luck motifs and letters, number and gemstones that all have significance to the client’s life.”

Who is your customer?

SYN: “Our pieces are unique to our aesthetic as a brand yet they also consider stepping outside to consider a diversity of wearer’s identities. As mentioned above, the vision of LOVERGLYPH© was to empower my customers to express themselves and immortalize their own universe. This applies to men and women, young and old, who are interested in owning objects that are adapted to their personal style, as opposed to following the latest trend.”

What are the most popular shapes in your collection and why?

SYN: “I chose timeless shapes and gold as gold historically symbolized immortality and power. The signet ring was used as long ago as 3500 BC. Records show the people of Mesopotamia used cylindrical seals as marks of authenticity. Medallions, and rings especially, were used traditionally as identification by influential rulers such as Pharaohs to show who they were. “

How do you wear and style your jewelry and how do you suggest your customer’s wear your pieces?

I am a minimalist and like giving my pieces space to breathe. I recommend selecting a few great, high-quality staples and building up a look based on that. My uniform is my wedding band and engagement ring, my chunky bespoke LOVERGLYPH© ring and a few pear-shaped yellow diamonds I wear as studs. I never take these off. I dress up the LOVERGLYPH© ring with the archery eternity bands in diamonds and sapphires. I love the textures of these bands. Discreet, refined and incredibly time consuming to make. Earrings transform and frame the face are the most effective way to add real glamour or drama for evening. I am in the process of building my dream collection. For every day, it’s yellow gold hoops striped with white diamonds.”

Can you talk about the gemstones you use in your designs?

I am passionate about old cuts, favoring portraits and rose cuts over brilliant modern cuts. Colombian emeralds, Paraiba tourmalines, spinels and garnets also feature frequently in my designs. I am drawn to their translucent color qualities, especially if paired with an unusual patina or texture. I know it’s a point of contention in fine jewelry. Still, I am fascinated by lab-grown materials and the opportunities they can open in complementing precious rare mined center stones. There is so much to play with when you open your mind.”

How do you see your collection evolving?

SYN: “I am only scratching the surface and I am very excited to scratch deeper! As a designer, I might find a lot of inspiration in the past, but at the same time, I am curious and optimistic about where we are headed. I welcome digital progress and the possibilities it opens. “