#EidAlAdha: City’s tasty biryani tales, from across generations

Daawats (feasts), not only for the loved ones, but for anyone who wants to be a part of the celebration, is what marks the festival of Eid al-Adha. As the young and dazzle in new clothes, and exchange greetings and presents, one thing that remains a constant in almost all households is their longing to feast on freshly prepared, aromatic biryani, the dish that is almost synonymous with this festival.

Delhi, given its rich cultural heritage, has many popular biryani spots around the city, which have been serving this dish since generations. Some of these are eateries that were set-up in the last century, and passed on the art of making flavourful biryani to generations down the line. For these families, who cook and serve biryani to satiate the cravings of foodies across NCR, it’s the love of being part of someone else’s celebration that runs in the blood. Behind the giant degchis (handi; utensil in which biryani is prepared), are these faces that have been hosting their patrons with delectable treat, and aim to continue doing so.

Four generations, and counting

The famed Chicken Biryani of Hussaini Hotel can be found in Nizamuddin’s packed streets, which lead to the Nizamuddin Aulia Dargah. Standing tall since 1952, “this is one of the first restaurants of Nizamuddin”. “Humare grandfather, Hussaini ji ne ise 70 saal pehle shuru kara tha,” informs Mohd Makki Hussain, who is the second eldest among the four grandsons. He adds, “Main aur mere bade bhai yahan bachpan se baith rahe hain. Pehle hum apne father ke saath baitha karte the, lekin ab kayi saalon se hum akele hi sambhaal rahe hain.”

The eldest brother, Mohd Talib Hussain, shares, “Now the fourth generation is also getting involved. Humara bhateeja do saal ka hai aur woh bhi yahan pe aakar bahut khush hota hai,” he says cheerfully, adding, “Eid ke time par hum restaurant band rakhte hain taaki family ke saath Eid achhe se mana sakein, par Eid ke pehle aur baad, hum khushi se logon ko biryani bana kar khailate hain. Khoob order aate hain.”

Aroma of cashews and almonds, from Old Delhi

Walking through the streets of Walled City, ask anyone for directions to Mohd Taufiq’s Dil Pasand Biryani Point, near Jama Masjid, and you shall be guided without any need to log into maps on the internet. Here sits the owner, Mohd Taufiq, who serves biryani and purani baatein in equal measures. “I am running this shop since the 1990s. Humari biryani bahut mashoor hai, puri dilli mein,” he says, adding, “Ab Eid aa rahi hai toh busy toh honge hi. Humein apne pariwaar ke saath Eid bhi manani hai aur yeh jagah bhi sambhalni hai. Par dukaan hamesha humare liye pehle hai, kyunki issi ki wajah se toh hum Eid itni khushiyon ke saath mana paate hain!”

Platefuls of biryani, topped with cashews and almonds, keep reaching the customer as Taufiq speaks to us while managing the place himself. His teenager son loves to tag along sometimes. “Mera ladka abhi chota hai aur main use pehle padhana chahta hun. Shaam ko yeh mere paas aakar baith jaata hai, aur mujhe biryani banate dekhta hai. Jis khushi se yeh seekhta hai, aisa lagta hai yeh mere se bhi zyaada badiya biryani banayega bahot jald,” shares Taufiq, adding, “Main chahunga ki yeh bahot tarakki kare, lekin yeh bhi chahta hun ki ye meri dukaan se humesha juda rahe.”

Charcha, chai se biryani tak

The year was 1960, when Bansi Lal set-up Tee Pee O at Mohan Singh Place in Connaught Place. Years down the line, he passed on the legacy of making biryani and the eatery to his son. The place that holds many a memories of the changing facets of Connaught Place, over the years, is now run by the third generation of the family, that is Lal’s two grandsons.

While Manish Arora, the elder one of the two, has been manning the joint since 1998, the young one, Puneet Arora joined in his brother in 2010. “When our grandfather started this place, shuru mein woh sirf chai aur snacks becha karte the. Tabhi se iska naam tee pee lo (have some tea) rakha. But 1970 mein unhone biryani bechni shuru kari, and since then even in 2022, the biryani that we serve is loved in the same way as it was when Dadaji used to make it,” says Manish.

Famous for its variety of biryanis, which range from chicken and mutton to fish, the place has indeed acquired a loyal fanbase. Puneet adds, “Jab humse pehle humare father yahan betha karte the toh hum dono bhaiyon ne unse seekha biryani banana. After he passed away, we decided to continue the tradition and have been taking care of everything. In a way it does feel great that we are carrying forward our grandfather’s legacy. But it’s his blessings that we are able to do so and retain the taste that compels customers to come back each time!”

Author Tweets Karan Sethi

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