Ernest W. Baker Spring 2024 Menswear Collection

Reid Baker and Ines Amorim were rearranging their clothing racks following what seemed like a solid visit from a major online stockist. As they are not inclined to stage a show until they can meet their exacting standards, the Porto-based duo behind Ernest W. Baker attracts a constant stream of visitors to their temporary Marais showroom. Here, the range is substantial but not superfluous, and they speak earnestly and engagingly about how their label has experienced steady interest from one season to the next—and not only because Pharrell, Justin Bieber, G-Dragon and Harry Styles are out representing.

“We’re low-key people. We care about creating cool imagery, nice clothing and something unique and authentic. And when you create something like that, people will come,” said Baker. “It takes time because you’re not in their faces.”

While they have been a brand for just long enough (2017) to draw from their own repertoire—see the double-breasted, peak lapel jacket worn with stitch-pleat, flared pants; the dressed-up track suits; the rose variations and playful gift bow interpretations—this was a collection that offered up all sorts of newness through personages that might feature in a noir-ish film. They noted another narrative layer—family vacations—to explain their spin on poolside slides (accented with chains) and a suit evoking a starry summer sky (thanks to tiny gold paillettes). They experimented with saturated ’80s hues (suits and silk velour knits in all-over rose and violet) and reimagined affluent leisure signifiers (a terry-like bouclé in gold hemp, track suits in velvet).

Having established their HQ in Portugal, Baker and Amorim work closely with their factories to develop custom materials—a multi-colored pinstripe, a beautiful croc-embossed leather, a snakeskin bouclé—that contribute to the brand’s charisma. Their pursuit of a sofa to feature in this season’s lookbook led instead to a stock of clear vinyl sofa covers, which were assembled into a military-style vest and trench, too stiff yet enticing (TBD whether they get produced in a limited run).

Unsurprisingly, they reissued the studded leather ensembles worn by Pharrell and Helen Lasichanh to last year’s Grammys, noting how this latest version is on theme (think holiday fireworks). There was also an instantly eye-catching XL spider web pattern embroidered in gold yarn atop a turquoise twinset that expands upon their ongoing spider fascination. Sleeveless tailoring confirmed their sartorial expertise, while an ensemble comprised of jacket, shorts, shirt and tie will prove a winning combination for celeb stylists seeking a slightly ironic approach to dressing up. Stylists should also consider the womenswear, a tight edit comprised of power skirt suits and ‘grandma chic’ outfits (pencil skirt over leggings, quilted belt bag). Indeed, the Ernest W. Baker ensemble is where the label shines. “People are buying into the total look, and we push this; but of course, they can feel free to break it up,” Baker said. For all the personal reminiscences embedded in this collection, the brand is flourishing in its present.