Fashion’s LVMH Prize winner doesn’t believe in catwalk shows

Satoshi Kuwata, the Japanese founder of Milan-based label Setchu and winner of the 2023 LVMH Prize for young fashion designers, tells Vincenzo La Torre about his distinctive East-West aesthetic.

Where does the name Setchu come from?

“Setchu is a Japanese word that refers to the reopening of Japan in the 19th century, at the end of the Edo period (1603–1867), so it’s a mix of Japanese culture and the West.

“Take this garment [points to an item on the rack], which looks like an origami kimono but is actually a tailored jacket.”

Why did you choose Milan as your base?

“My shirts are made in Naples, all handmade. I’m really happy with the results and all the fabrics are from Italy.”

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Tell us about your background.

How did you get into fashion?

“I started picking my clothes when I was six years old but I remember that, when I was 12 or 13, one night I stayed at a friend’s house and all we talked about was fashion.

“I went to fashion school in London, Central Saint Martins, but after high school I was working at Beams, a fashion boutique in Osaka, and that’s where I learned everything. By the time I got to London I had already learned a lot.

“I then moved to Milan and was the creative director of a commercial brand. I saved some money and started Setchu.”

Your background is quite global, which is also reflected in your work.

“That’s why I named my brand Setchu. My life has become like Setchu, a mix of Western and Japanese culture. My name is Satoshi but who cares about my name? I’m so far away from Japan now so I look at it the way you probably look at it.”

What do you plan to do with the €400,000 (US$439,000) LVMH prize money?

“First, I need to share my business ideas with the mentors and get advice on when and how I should use the prize. I need to be really clever about the timing.

“I used to be a shareholder of a company so I understand the logic behind it. I need to set up my online business and develop some products for my online platform.