Finding the hidden treasures in Canada’s food truck industry

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In every corner of the nation, Canadians can find comfort and some of the best meals on the planet at their local food truck. These street eats can be seen tucked into industrial areas, near farmers’ markets, seasonal carnivals, on busy city streets or lush country roads or patiently waiting near highway off ramps.

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Keep your eyes peeled and your appetite ready as you’re bound to find a food truck serving everything from traditional faves (chip trucks rock the world!) to exquisite, exotic concoctions that will have you drooling for more. A food truck is guaranteed to satisfy even the fussiest of appetites. When you see one – and you’re curious – go try it out. Blink and you’ve probably passed an amazing meal experience the likes you’ve never tasted before.

Every cuisine in the world is represented in Canada’s food truck world, in itself a proud reflection of the vast and rich culinary landscape that reflects what the nation is all about – especially when it comes into tucking into a delicious meal, perhaps on the fly, when time is of the essence and, especially now, when the pandemic has transformed the Canadian restaurant experience.

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According to Food Network Canada’s Great Food Truck Race ( foodnetwork.ca ), “Some call them the pioneers of take-out food culture. Others call them mobile eateries with a purpose. Whatever you think about food trucks, we are glad to see them roaming the streets of Canadian cities.”

And our country is rich with the food truck experience.

Two food trucks share space in a tiny corner of the town of Bowmanville, Ont., both award-winners and each one iconic to the community, with one serving beloved traditional fare while the other serves up something unique. And, although both stand on their own merit, they’re intertwined through family.

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One is called Hanc’s Fries, with a menu that is pure Canadiana – fish and chips, deep-fried pickles, peameal on a bun, burgers made fresh by hand, and these ubiquitous fries that have fans driving in from miles around. Word is the potatoes are sourced to a local farmer and each potato is lovingly peeled and prepared fresh daily.

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At the helm of Hanc’s Fries ( hancs.ca ) is Victor and Barbara Hanc, veteran restaurant folks who have been happily serving up traditional food truck fare since 1971, when they purchased a used food truck and “thought we’d give it a try,” starting out, humbly enough, on weekends, with two 50-lb. bags of potatoes daily.

Customers outside Hanc’s Fries food truck have been showing up to the famous food trailer on King St. E. In Bowmanville since 1971. Victor Hanc boasts he has served over five million customers since opening.
Customers outside Hanc’s Fries food truck have been showing up to the famous food trailer on King St. E. In Bowmanville since 1971. Victor Hanc boasts he has served over five million customers since opening. Photo by Jack Boland photography /Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Now they go through more than 3,000 pounds of potatoes on any given weekend and, by their estimation, have served more than 5 million people since opening up shop 50 years ago, their famous fries the top sellers.

On a cold January morning, Faith Weston (left) hands off some lunch to customers while Heather O’Leary (right) works the steamy fries vat as Victor Hanc looks on inside the famous Hanc’s Fries food truck in Bowmanville.
On a cold January morning, Faith Weston (left) hands off some lunch to customers while Heather O’Leary (right) works the steamy fries vat as Victor Hanc looks on inside the famous Hanc’s Fries food truck in Bowmanville. Photo by Jack Boland photography /Jack Boland/Toronto Sun/Postmedia Network

Of course, the apple (in this case, the crust) doesn’t fall far from the tree, with the Hanc’s son, Vic Jr., and his wife, Jade Chaput, working the pizza side of things. Kitty-corner to the chip truck you’ll find Jr.’s  Handmade Sourdough Pizza truck ( jrssourdoughpizza.com ) – yes, pizza made with freshly-made sourdough – and with toppings that have made many swoon. Apart from regular toppings, there’s jerk chicken and pineapple, dill pickle pizza and loaded baked potato pizza. Since opening eight years ago, the pizza food truck has garnered tons of awards and accolades – and loyal fans, who keep in touch via social media, when they’re not munching on a pizza.

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During a recent interview, Jade says food trucks are a world onto themselves – and a real labour of love, given the long hours and opened year round, except for Christmas.

Yet, “there’s something so unique about the food truck experience, especially when the weather warms up, and whole families come out, with lawn chairs, kids playing nearby, and just enjoy the moment … it really shows the spirit of the community, and what neighbourhoods are truly all about.”

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Much like the 2014 movie, Chef , which sees a famous chef get turfed from his restaurant and turn his talent towards running a food truck – a wonderful film loosely based on the real-life experiences of a food truck owner.

Has the pandemic impacted on business? “The community has been very supportive of both trucks, and, thanks to our customers, we’ve definitely been able to stay open,” said Jade, adding, “we’re living in such difficult times … the foods we offer are comfort foods which help fill a void.”

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The joy in both trucks comes from “giving back – we do a lot of work with the community, we take care of our first responders as we’re close to the hospital and EMS, as well as three different nursing homes. We do the gift bags for seniors and pizza lunches for nursing home staff and do this in partnership with this amazing group called CureCF4Avery … the food trucks are an extension of a great community, and that’s what makes our work, and our food truck experience … so wonderful.”

Hanc’s Fries and Jr’s Handmade Sourdough Pizza represent a microcosm of Canada’s food truck world, in which eat truck is unique in its own character, and part of the tapestry of the communities in which they exist. Something to think about next time to pass a food truck and wonder what’s on the menu.

On Facebook: @ HancsFries @ jrshandmadesodo

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