Fine Jewelry Borrows Direction From Fabric Trim

First, it was mesh, tassels, fringe, lace and latticework with details of ruffles and feminine flourishes that swayed with the body. The fluid forms, borrowed from the movement and elements of the haute couture and ready-to-wear runways, showed up in jewelry for several seasons. Fabric evoked tactile styles of bib mesh necklaces, modern sautoirs and earrings with tassels and fringe. At the same time, floral and delicate petit point embroidery, which showed as the tops of see-through gowns at awards shows, was spun into golden chandelier earrings and drapey necklaces.

The trend towards fabric-inspired jewelry continues and has evolved into more structured pieces—similar to those we saw in the Retro period after the war in the 1940s when fabric-inspired pieces were draped, folded and ruched and were designed into dimensional rings, wide bracelets, and necklaces.

The new pieces are more delicate in scale but are still striking in their detailed design.

Here are two companies which are are showing pieces in this feeling:

Mason & Books

Jamie Books, who won the hearts of retailers and customers alike with her “Love Bug” collection of painterly colored scarabs for protection, has gone in a different direction for Summer 2023 into Holiday 2023. The new collection is titled “Chiffon, ” a romantic twist on ribbon trimmings in all classifications of jewelry. These pieces are designed in yellow gold and imitate the folds and drapes in ribbon. Diamond accents and blackened metal add to the texture of the otherwise high polished pieces.

Her debut collection had a Bow capsule group and Jamie explains, “The bow was designed with perfect symmetry; its natural evolution is to unravel. This was the impetus for the Chiffon ribbon collection, which is sophisticated in its seemingly unstudied and changing shapes and is a physical representation of womanhood.” She continues, “It’s the physical representation of womanhood. Our bow is the girl within us, and the ribbon is our unpredictable nature; the girl, growing up, experiencing ups and downs and twists and turns.”

Boochier

Boochier is another company that plays on a trim motif. “The Tie Collection is modeled on interlocking laces of gold and diamonds and the different experiences or ‘threads’ that interweave throughout our lives, says designer Melinda Zeman. It is translated into high-end jewelry in 18K yellow, rose or white gold or two-tone gold combinations with diamonds and blackened accents. This collection was Boochier’s first collection which has now become its signature. “The design is also a reminder that we are tied together, whether culturally, in friendship, romantic love or experiences. And, says Zeman, “It’s about celebrating all the important people that have touched our lives.”