Nonchalance is one of those words that captures the aura of something, in this case a sophisticated ease. It’s an attitude and approach that Giambattista Valli carries over from his own life—the designer is famous for wearing his precious natural pearl necklace with jeans and a sweater—into his latest pre-fall collection, which balances glamour and practicality. Both luxuriously fringed tweed cardigan jackets and jeans in cropped and boot-leg cuts seem made for motion.
As we all know that the pace of fashion is untenable in terms of the environment, it was nice to see Valli carry over the spring’s “paglia di Vienna” or rattan pattern to use on denim, rather than abandon it. We need more of that kind of thinking. The floral prints, paislies, bows, and prettiness associated with the house were all present in the collection. While some of the printed pieces felt rote, there was newness in the silhouette, which was slimmer, sharper, and closer to the body. The opening look, a top and skirt of exquisitely worked sequin embroidery worked in a sort of coromandel pattern, was clearly an investment piece, and epitomized the allure of the house. “I want to give something more special, [something] dreamy,” said Valli. “You know, the dream is very important. Especially in a recession, people love to buy less, but to buy better, and I think this is very important.”
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