Gold willy? That’s a bit Bulgar – Explore the humorous history of Sofia

WITH a twinkle in his eye, young actor and tour guide Boyan Petrov tells us he has appeared on the stage at Bulgaria’s National Theatre, outside which we stand.

As its ornate entrance with white pillars and red paintwork towers behind him, he launches into an anecdote: “Look at the little statue of a cherub boy high above the entrance . . .

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Legend has it, the wife of the craftsman working up there was about to have a child.

“He was so excited he put gold leaf on the cherub’s private parts. Soon afterwards he gained a baby . . . but lost his job.”

Petrov had been guiding us around the centre of Bulgarian capital Sofia, on a walking tour crammed full with both intriguing facts and funny anecdotes.

The city may not have the pizzazz of Paris or romance of Rome but does have charm and history.

Best of all, a weekend break here won’t break the bank — with return flights starting at just over £30.

And this walking tour is totally free.

Like other local guides, they are delighted to show off their city to visitors for nothing, although a tip is gratefully received.

To find out more, see freesofiatour.com.

In the winter sunshine, we stroll along the city’s famous yellow cobblestones to Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, its gold domes standing proud above the city.

Its image is always the first thing to come up in any Instagram or web search of Sofia.

It was built as a thank you to the Russians for helping to end 500 years of Ottoman rule, and many Bulgarians were so proud of the project they donated cash towards its construction.

Boyan says dentists even stood at the building site to help people donate their gold fillings — although I sense this might be another of his urban myths.

We also pass by the former Central Mineral Baths where locals in the 19th century used to go for a soak, scrub and gossip.

There is a campaign to reopen them, but for now we have to make do with just sampling the thermal waters from a drinking fountain outside.

It tastes a bit eggy but apparently is meant to be good for the heart.

Walking along Sofia’s wide boulevards, you can immerse yourself in the city’s 7000-year history.

Standing at one spot in the centre, I could see around me an Orthodox church, a synagogue, a monastery, Roman ruins and a Soviet-style accommodation block.

And reminders of the Cold War are everywhere.

One of the city’s newest museums takes you back to the early Eighties to discover what life was like in communist Sofia.

A world of freebies

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In fact, it’s not really a museum at all but rather a family’s home, laid out exactly as it was when Ronald Reagan and Mikhail Gorbachev were in power as presidents of the US and Russia.

The flat is a nosy parker’s dream.

Listening to an audio guide as I walked from room to room, I was encouraged to peer in cupboards and drawers, put an album on the record player, sit on a Soviet-era kids’ bike and flick through family photo albums.

Tickets are less than a fiver (redflatsofia.com).

Sofia also has an arty, hipster scene.

At the Fox Café (Foxbooks.bg) you can buy a novel or kids’ book in English and sip a cappuccino for half the price it would be in the UK.

Or if you fancy trying out some Bulgarian delicacies, there’s another fabulous free tour for that.

Balkan Bites (balkanbitesfoodtours.com) is a two-hour trip on foot around of some of the city’s restaurants, bars and cafes.

You might get to munch on banitsa — a flaky pastry filled with creamy cheese — or some Bulgarian yoghurt, which locals claim is world- beating.

Fancy a tipple? Head to The Scene — arguably Sofia’s fanciest rooftop bar, where you can watch the sun set over the city while sipping a cocktail.

And for hearty Bulgarian dishes try Moma (moma-restaurant.com) where the soft-roasted pork cheeks with baked sauerkraut and bacon are divine.

Both places are snazzy, but affordable

The same goes for the hotels, too.

I stayed in the new five-star Hyatt Regency — which is truly luxurious, with a plush spa and pool, but at a great price.

This little city on the edge of Europe really does have everything — cheap flights, great-value food and drink, plus a world of freebies.

Sofia, so good.