Happy Wanderer: San Francisco travel destinations going strong as ever

That downtown San Francisco has been struggling since the pandemic is no secret. To borrow a quote from Mark Twain, though, reports of San Francisco’s death may be “greatly exaggerated.” In fact, there are many neighborhoods that are thriving in the City by the Bay. Below are four of my favorites.

North Beach: On a recent Saturday afternoon, soccer fans were spilling out of several local bars; sidewalk cafés were doing brisk business and beloved sites like Coit Tower were teaming with tourists. A vintage 1950s fire engine rumbled along the crowded streets, taking passengers on a San Francisco Fire Engine Tour (sanfranciscofireenginetours.com) of the district known as San Francisco’s version of “Little Italy.”

Meanwhile, at the popular Italian eatery Convivium Enoteca, San Francisco Board of Supervisors President Aaron Peskin was telling journalists how North Beach merchants acted quickly to open parklets during the pandemic, positioning the neighborhood for a quick post-COVID-19 comeback. Authentic eateries like Tony’s Pizza Napoletana (tonyspizzanapoletana.com) and the popular fudge shop Z. Cioccolato continue to draw customers to the area.

Nob Hill: With crown jewels like the 1909 neoclassical Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco hotel, Nob Hill is one of the most visually seductive places on earth. Traversing the hilly streets with telescoping views of the bay, you’re immersed in architectural elegance.

Heavy cornices, recessed entryways, circular bay windows and ornate fire escapes accent the French-flaired Edwardian style of so many structures built right after the city’s 1906 earthquake and fire. Grace Cathedral is another destination with its soaring Gothic columns and inspiring stained-glass windows and walking labyrinths.

Tying Nob Hill together is San Francisco’s iconic cable car system. Its two lines intersect at the crest of California Street, and the nearby Cable Car Museum (1201 Mason St.) is free to the public. The Ritz-Carlton, San Francisco’s outdoor event space, the Terrace Courtyard, is also open to the public through September for its Solaire Terrasse featuring celebrated Veuve Clicquot champagnes that can be paired with the chef’s signature seafood tower and dessert from the gelato cart.

The Presidio: San Francisco’s northwest corner, anchored by one of the most photographed structures in the world — the Golden Gate Bridge — is a national park inside a national park.

The Presidio is just 1,491 acres, but the park’s forested trails, sandy beaches, scenic overlooks, museums and 200-plus years of history draw more than 5 million visitors a year — and there’s no entrance fee. It’s part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area, an urban national park including the Presidio, Alcatraz, Ocean Beach, Muir Woods and more.

The Presidio’s newest attraction is an expansive urban park and playground, the $118 million Presidio Tunnel Tops. Also, one of the Bay Area’s best Mexican restaurants — with a popular happy hour — is Colibri in the historic Presidio Officers Club, the site of one of San Francisco’s oldest buildings, dating to the 1790s.

Treasure Island: San Francisco’s newest neighborhood is seeing growth as 8,000 new homes attract residents to the island created in 1936-37 for the 1939-40 World’s Fair known as the Golden Gate International Exposition. A $5 ferry ride from the San Francisco Ferry Terminal puts you within walking distance of island hot spots, including the must-see Treasure Island Museum. The museum has priceless exposition memorabilia, including four World’s Fair statues on the building front grounds.