Again, salicylic acid is an excellent choice—it’s anti-inflammatory and works by reducing the production of sebum (oil) that contributes to clogged pores, Dr. Lebowitz adds.9, 10 They both also recommend glycolic acid, which has been shown to improve acne.5, 11
Eczema or rosacea-prone skin
If you’re dealing with either of these chronic inflammatory conditions, it’s important to see a board-certified dermatologist about how often—if at all—you should exfoliate. “I wouldn’t recommend doing it at home unless you discuss it with your doctor first,” Dr. Castilla says She especially cautions against physical scrubs (which, again, can be particularly abrasive).
People who have eczema are already dealing with a damaged skin barrier, which explains symptoms like cracking or peeling, so over-exfoliating can trigger flare-ups, per the National Eczema Association. Similarly, rosacea-prone folks have highly sensitive and easily irritated skin, which is why overdoing it can increase redness, burning, and/or stinging.
That doesn’t mean exfoliants are entirely off-limits, though. Just make sure to talk to a dermatologist or your primary care provider, if you have one. These experts can provide more personalized (and safe) guidance, Dr. Castilla says.
What’s the best method for exfoliating your face?
Let’s start with physical exfoliation products. Most of them are cleansers, so you should use them on damp skin, per Dr. Lebowitz. She also recommends applying them gently and in circular motions (as you normally would when washing your face) and rinsing thoroughly when you’re done. Oh, and avoid dry brushing altogether—Dr. Castilla and Dr. Lebowitz agree that it’s too harsh for the fragile cheeks, forehead, and eye area.
Chemical exfoliants, on the other hand, are meant for dry skin (after cleansing) and should be used at night, according to both dermatologists. The skin naturally repairs itself while you sleep, Dr. Castilla explains, so exfoliating before bed can support this process by removing the outer layer of dead cells, allowing new ones to come to the surface more easily.12 (Plus, regardless of which acid you use, exfoliating during the day can make your freshly buffed face more vulnerable to sun damage.)13
Whether you physically or chemically exfoliate, you should avoid using strong actives, like additional exfoliating acids, acne treatments, retinol, other retinoids, or vitamin C, at the same time—all of which can be harsh and may increase sensitivity.14 It’s also a good idea to avoid added fragrances, which can similarly cause irritation, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.
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