Historic Paseo re-opens in Mill Valley with farm-to-table menu and intimate European ambiance

The storied setting of Mill Valley’s Paseo — A California Bistro has a special occasion feel about it all year long, so although the wait for its pandemic-extended opening has kept the lights dim for quite some time (two years to be exact), it’s a fitting season for the gift of its return.

The freshly updated classic downtown restaurant known since 1947 as El Paseo opened on Friday. The restaurant was purchased in 2019 by Mill Valley resident and entrepreneur Ki Yong Choi from local resident and multi-platinum rock musician Sammy Hagar.

“Choi used to be a customer and knows and appreciates the amazing, historic location,” says general manager Kevin Pacotti, a Bay Area marketing consultant and restaurant industry veteran who has been involved with the project from the beginning.

Pacotti says the intent was to adhere to the time-honored style of the celebration spot as much as possible, maintaining the intimate European ambiance in the evening while creating a softer, more welcoming daytime environment. This includes replacing dark wood tabletops with white quartz, lightening interior dark paneling and brick walls, and installing glass bar shelving.

Previously known as a nighttime-only destination, guests can now visit the two dining rooms, sun-dappled patios and cocktail lounge tucked along the pedestrian passageway between Sunnyside and Throckmorton avenues for lunch and weekend brunch, too.

Executive chef Brandon Breazeale (Bodega Bay Lodge in Sonoma County, 31st Union in San Mateo) and sous Chef Kevin Cornwell execute the Bay Area-sourced menu.

“Farm-to-table takes a special skill set, creativity and patience,” Pacotti says. “We’ve put together a great team.”

This includes a network of partners like Nicasio Valley Cheese Co., Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Co. for a charcuterie board and in salads that spin together fresh components such as bartlett pear, pickled fennel, Bay Blue cheese and toasted hazelnuts and another with roasted Chioggia beets, baby kale, Laura Chenel goat cheese, crisp quinoa and Marshall’s Farm natural honey vinaigrette. Starters also include raw or baked oysters; panzanella with duck confit, arugula and sweet potato; and a seasonally inspired soup of the day.

Six of the nine entrees are meat-based. Rancho Llano Seco pork loin is served over fingerling potatoes, Brussels sprouts, bacon lardon, cipollini onion with pear mostarda;herb crusted duck breast comes with squash farrotto and duck fat rosemary grapes; and the Paseo burger is layered with tomato jam, caramelized onion, bread and butter pickles and gem lettuce on aioli swiped seeded brioche with optional add-ons such as Fiscalini cheddar and applewood smoked bacon.

Plump California halibut poached in olive oil is tightly wrapped with rainbow chard atop burnt shallot puree, fennel confit and hen of the woods mushrooms; local rock fish is sauced with tomato saffron fume; and the plant-based cassoulet contains cannellini beans, cauliflower and baby turnips.

Desserts such as peanut mascarpone crunch and milk, white and dark chocolate torte are made in-house.

The crafted cocktail lineup features combinations such as coconut-washed BarSol Quebranta Pisco, passion fruit, lime and hibiscus; Charbay green tea vodka, Gravenstein apple shrub, elderflower soda and garden herbs; and No. 209 Gin, yellow Chartreuse, lemon, ginger, honey, white pepper and fennel pollen. The curated wine list highlights California vintners and craft beers also hail from the local region.

For brunch, poached eggs Benedict is stacked with bacon and spinach on a buttermilk biscuit with herb hollandaise; huevos rancheros has house-made chorizo, vegetarian refried beans and cilantro crema; and brioche French toast comes with spiced pears, sweet cream and maple syrup.

“Our first weekend was tremendous, and we are humbled by the outpouring of support we’ve received from the community,” says Pacotti. The Paseo legacy continues.

Dinner is served from 5 to 9 p.m. Sundays through Thursdays and 5 to 9:30 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays. Starting Dec. 15, the restaurant is open for lunch from 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesdays through Fridays and from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. for brunch on weekends at 17 Throckmorton Ave. in Mill Valley. Find further details and book a table at paseobistro.com or call 415-888-3907.

Holiday sweets 

Creekside Bakery in Novato has an extensive list of sweet and savory indulgences for Christmas, such a bûche de Noël, cranberry Grand Marnier cheesecake, ginger spice cake layered with Meyer lemon cream, holly-shaped princess cake, an assortment of pies and breakfast Christmas wreaths, hand-decorated cookies, breads (dinner rolls, stollen, panettone, teacakes) and quiches. Order early for the best selection at creeksidebakery.com or call 415-892-7655. Pick up between 7 a.m. and 4 p.m. Dec. 24 at 1719 Grant Ave. The bakery is closed Dec. 25 through 28.

Brit baking

Mince pie filled with dried fruits and spices, a part of the traditional British Christmas feast dating back to medieval times, is ready for order from British baker and Mill Valley transplant Sophia Burton of Great British Bakes. These are available through January or while supplies last at the Thursday Marin Farmers Market from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. at 10 Avenue of the Flags in San Rafael. You’ll also find honey and spelt cake, organic raspberry and shortbread jammie whirls, ginger and spice cake, fruit and nut flapjacks and meringues.

Find out what’s cooking this week and place special orders at greatbritishbakes.com.

Slice of Sausalito