Cutting down a Christmas tree is a tradition for many families — and a staple outing in nearly every Hallmark holiday movie. Christmas tree farms offer plenty of Douglas firs and Monterey Cypress, of course, but for those who crave the nostalgia of chopping down an imperfect pine in the wilderness, there’s another option.
Tucked away in the Lost Sierra in Plumas County, the cozy town of Graeagle sits along the Middle Fork Feather River about an hour north of Truckee. With a population of less than 1,000, the small town offers all the wintry, holiday charm of a movie — you know, the kind where a big city exec falls in love with a lumberjack trying to save his family business.
The tree-sourcing experience requires nothing more than a $10 permit from the Plumas National Forest, a hand saw and a sense of adventure. A four-wheel drive vehicle helps, especially when the weather is a bit wet. Consult a map and you’ll find several places where you can get off the main road and cut down your largest holiday decoration. Most are just a small jog from the main stretch, a couple of miles at most up a dirt road, where plenty of very tall pine trees await. (Plus a few Charlie Brown trees, if that’s what you’re into.)
The actual tree cutting takes just a few minutes — half an hour, if you’re picky. But if you trekked the four to five hours from the Bay Area to save $100+ on your tree, you may as well make a weekend of the experience — and this region makes it easy. (And if you’d rather rely on your faux tree at home, come on up anyway and enjoy a lazy weekend up here in the snowy Sierra.)
The Nakoma Resort in nearby Clio and Chalet View Lodge in Graeagle offer not only accommodations but amenities to entertain visitors of all ages. Options at the Nakoma Resort, which boasts both a contemporary hotel and vacation rentals, include the Altitude rec center and game room with rock climbing and indoor basketball, as well as a pool and hot tub within view of the bar and restaurant, so kids can play safely while adults visit. A small movie theater adds to the fun.
Snowy weather? Book a guided tour by snowshoe, snowmobile, fat tire bike or dog
sled to explore the rough and wild terrain that surrounds Nakoma. There’s also cross country skiing and longboard racing for adrenaline enthusiasts.
When you’re hungry, small bites at the Middle Fork Bistro and Bar in Altitude are family friendly. But the real draw is watching the snow fall while dining on high-end fare at
Restaurant Fifty44 at the grand Frank Lloyd Wright lodge, built in 2001 according to Wright’s architectural plans from 1923.
Down the road in Graeagle, Chalet View Lodge offers another type of experience with rustic cabins, modern villas and two-story lodging, with queen and king-sized sleeping accommodations below and couches and twin and full beds upstairs.
When you’re not dipping into the private six-person hot tub on the back deck of your
three-bedroom villa or hosting your own winter barbecue outdoors, you can enjoy communal gatherings at Eureka Peak Brewing Co. The on-site taproom and restaurant gets busy in the evenings, but it’s the type of buzzy fun that makes the vacation. Enjoy pizza, light bites and craft beer, before challenging your spouse to a round of pool or your kids to board games or shuffleboard.
When the weather allows, guests can take the party outside for bocce ball, corn hole,
horseshoes or volleyball. There’s even a small golf course on site that’s free to play — and open even in the snow.
Besides the lodges, there’s an expanse of wilderness to discover. Plumas Forest offers sweeping views of snow-capped mountains and plenty of (perhaps frozen) lakes. The
chilly air doesn’t keep visitors — or locals — from enjoying the outdoors, whether they’re
sledding down a nearby hill or attempting a game of winter disc golf at The Brewing Lair, an outdoor-only brewery in Blairsden.
You’d think the thrill of playing outdoors would wane as temperatures drop, but no — the Brewing Lair’s barbecue pits are popular year-round spots for families, who bring their own food to grill, and enjoy beer tastings from the small operation housed inside a tiny cabin-like structure. Small wooden buildings provide a place to shop and hang out, but they are open to the frosty elements, so bundle up. Beer may be the Lair’s forte, but they have hot cocoa for the kids.
Graeagle’s other favored pastime is shopping, so you’re covered, if you need to stock up on stocking stuffers or other gifts for loved ones. Charming cottages house Feathers, a store specializing in home goods, and boutiques such as Briar Patch and Queen Bee. There’s Graeagle Outfitters for all your outdoor sports needs and the Wild Pines gift shop, all within walking distance along a narrow, two-lane road. Enjoy scoops of Cascade Glacier and Tahoe Creamery ice cream — caramel caribou, perhaps — and affogato at Millie’s Ice Cream and Coffee, or a glass of Bargetto pinot noir at The Peak wine bar, with — you guessed it — an outdoor seating option.
The truth of the matter is, you can’t go wrong when it comes to eating well in Graeagle.
Every eatery, whether it’s Mexican or Italian, is cute, cozy and oozing with small town charm. But our fave is in an unexpected location: Sierra Squeeze Burger serves up cheese skirt-style burgers from a counter at the back of a gas station in nearby Portola. The venue may sound a bit iffy, but those burgers are crowd pleasers, at least for this family.
If You Go
Plumas National Forest: Find tree cutting maps and details and order a Christmas tree permit ($10 per tree, plus a $2.50 service fee; two tree maximum) at www.recreation.gov/tree-permits/.
Nakoma Resort: Rooms start at $184, some dates require two-night stays. 348 Bear Run in Clio; https://nakomaresort.com
Chalet View Lodge: Rooms start at $175. 72056 Highway 70 in Blairsden-Graeagle; www.chaletviewlodge.com
The Brewing Lair: Opens at noon daily at 67007 Highway 70 in Blairsden; www.thebrewinglair.com.
Feathers: 7467 Highway 89, Graeagle
Briar Patch: 7525 Highway 89, Graeagle
Queen Bee: 7701 Highway 89, Graeagle
Millie’s Ice Cream and Coffee: 7512 Highway 89, Graeagle; http://milliesgraeagle.com
The Peak: 7482 Highway 89, Graeagle; www.thepeakiscalling.com
Sierra Squeeze Burger: Open daily at 287-323 E. Sierra Ave. in Portola.
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