How The Wines Of The Languedoc Entered The 21st Century Global Market: An Interview With Miren Lomgeril

The wines of the Languedoc, or Languedoc-Roussillon, is the south of French have long been known more for their bulk than their quality, with much of the oversupply made into neutral alcohol. Thousands of cooperatives owned by tradition-bound farmers maintained the old ways. But in the 1990s the more individualized, more forward-thinking vintners, saw that with improvement in vineyard management, technology and focus on terroir the Languedoc’s wines could compete readily with better-known regions’, not least the Rhône valley to the northeast where Syrah and Grenache are dominant and increasingly of high quality in the Languedoc. To get an update on the state of the region’s viticulture, I interviewed Miren de Lorgeril of Maison Lorgeril, with links back to 1620 and whose consultant until 2018 was Patrick Léon, formerly technical director of Domaine Baron Philippe Rothschild.

Your family in the region goes back more than 400 years. Were they known for making good Languedoc wines in the 18th and 19th centuries?

We have very few references about the history. I do know that the wines of Pennautier were served to the royal officers in 1701.

The Languedoc has hundreds of cooperatives making enormous amounts of wine, some of which was turned into Europe’s alcohol lake. Are those cooperatives still very conservative in the way they make their wines?

Due to huge efforts in the last 20 years, at least 70% of theses cooperatives have changed their options and are now producing vin de cépages at the standard level, at least, and 20% to 30% have become HVE or organic. Their technical obligations for the wine growers have considerably been increased, so their difficulties are not linked to the quality of wine but to the concurrency of other countries wines that don’t have the same costs as, say, Spain. That is why some millésime have not been completely sold and turned into alcohol.

Do you think that the best wines of the Languedoc compare with the fine wines of both Bordeaux and Burgundy?

Each region is different. Burgundy is a tiny region with a exceptional level of knowledge by parcel, which is the fruit of history. Bordeaux is a region with a huge difference between some top wines and a large production at middle level. Languedoc AOP has the size of Burgundy and has an ambition of excellence, so that some of the greatest wines of Languedoc have that same ambition and are now reaching the top levels. We are working with the same level of technics and equipment as Burgundy and Bordeaux, so we might reach these levels. Some of the AOP combination of soils and micro-climates are at the same level, and we are sure that these levels of quality are reached for some and reachable for many.

Your Chardonnay is a very fine example of the French style for that varietal. How is your Chardonnay made?

Our chardonnay Marquis de Pennautier, Pays d’Oc is produced on limestone/clay soils. The grapes are hand-picked at a fresh hour, between six to ten in the morning, to have natural freshness. 50% is vinified in oak and the rest vinified in tanks.

How important are the sea winds to the terroir of your vineyards?

Our terroir of Château de Pennautier is settled in a place where Pyrénées and Massif Central are nearly joining, close to Carcassonne. It is a naturel place for air flow, so the winds are accelerated and more powerful. The wind coming from the Mediterranean (east) is rather powerful, since the sea is close by, at 70 km, while the winds from the Atlantic (300 km) are reaching the region after crossing the southwest of France, where there is no natural obstacle to stop them, and they arrive in this narrow region and face the Mediterranean wind. This gives many occasions for rain and fresh air, which is excellent for the balance of the wine.

Has Agro-tourism been important in the Languedoc? Can people visit your estate?

Agro-tourism is important in Languedoc and increasing: 30% of the famous estates are open to the public for wine tasting; 10% for larger visits. We have been pioneers in that matter, opening to the public in 2002, with a tasting, cellar, restaurant and rental houses in the vineyard. The castle itself is an historical monument, and the garden is classified as Jardin remarquable. The tour in the garden is open every day, and the castle is open for rental for seminars and events, including 24 bedrooms for groups.

How do you think you can defend against the worst aspects of climate change?

We are adapting strongly to the climate change in many ways. Plantngs are higher and higher in altitude. Greens cover is used in the vineyard during winter to dynamize natural fertilization and help the roots of the vineyard to go down deep. It also increases the organic life in the soil. We also pay attention to the quality of global vineyard environment in the trees, bees and all natural life around the vineyards. We use irrigation in some parcels where it is possible.

What makes your wines organic and why is it so much more expensive to produce?

The organic charter is granting us the label Bio, which means no chemicals use in the vineyard. In consequence, many of the actions have to been managed by hand, so we have to come more often in the vineyard for different actions, which costs at least 50% more in workforce.

What are your largest export markets?

Canada is the first, then UK, Japan, and USA is becoming quickly an important market that should be the 4th in 2023.

How have you managed to keep prices moderate by comparison with other French regional wines?

The key point is the land price. As the region has been less known in the last 40 years, the increase of the price is not important, compared to other famous regions.

You have four children but none of them yet show an interest in the winemaking at your estate. Do you think this will change, and why?

Our children are still young and we have asked them to reach the top of their ambition and then to add a personal experience in other businesses and regions in order to come back with knowledge and open minds. They have graduated in the very best universities, and they are working now in very top companies. They are already involved in many occasions as tastings, harvests, board, and we have asked them to come back in the next 5 years.

The war in the Ukraine has prevented you from exporting to Russia. Has that been a problem financially?

Russia was for us a small market, so it is not a big financial loss. We are very sorry for our partners who are suffering a lot.

Is the Languedoc ready to start making Pinot Noir and Cabernet Sauvignon, and, if so, why bother, rather than stay with the traditional varieties of the region?

These two varietals are already developed in the west part of Languedoc, where the climate is adapted. Limoux and Cabardès have been planted with such varietals because they match very well with the climate and with high-altitude parcels. In these parts, the local varieties, such as Syrah and Grenache, are less adapted.

How would you say your wines made with varietals predominant in the Rhône valley different from those made there?

It is always difficult to compare such a large region as Rhone with a lot of differences. Grenache and Syrah are settled in AOP Languedoc on high terroirs, on great varieties of soils but well balanced between altitude, clay and stones as schistes/limestone/sandstone. The Rhône is probably a little warmer, less impacted by winds and more stony (less clay to balance) and warmer nights.