Huishan Zhang made a case for chic skirt suits at his spring summer 2023 show

Huishan Zhang has been quietly, elegantly building a business based on exquisite occasion-wear that’s often covered with embellishment, lace and couture level beading. It’s become a red carpet favourite with Gemma Chan, Anna Taylor-Joy and Gwyneth Paltrow, but for spring summer 2023, Zhang dialled back the froufrou excesses and presented an almost minimalistic collection, inspired by sci-fi films and the future of traditional Chinese dress.

While London Fashion Week was in full swing and Zhang’s creations were taking a turn down the runway, the designer himself was stranded in his Chinese studio, under long-lingering quarantine rules. Seeing the designer of any collection take their bow is always a key moment, which gives a glimpse into the workings behind the catwalk glamour. While the audience missed Zhang’s moment, it was also a sharp reminder that the world is still in turmoil.

Although in the fashion world, it was business as usual, even as the shows took place during the mourning period for The Queen. For spring summer 2023 Zhang’s take on pared back futurism evoked the best 1960s silhouettes, which were made bold and relevant in electrifying neon bright checks. There were still moments of extravaganza but the new clean direction felt chic and polished.

Having trained in the Dior couture atelier, Zhang knows how to cut a dashing silhouette with tailoring and the crisp skirt suits and co-ords were particularly desirable. Crystals scattered over a light denim two-piece or a teal leather skirt suit with fluted, frilled skirt blended the right amount of fancy and formal. As trouser suits remain an eye-popping street style staple, perhaps the prim skirt suit might be the next set ripe for a resurgence?

Evolution for a brand is really important. So many designers work out what they do well then continue to do it and never move on… But it’s vital for creatives to make a change and stay fresh to ensure their continued relevance and success. Sure, carry on with your favourite motifs – the DNA of a brand, if you will – but don’t stagnate. Today, Huishan Zhang showed the power of change and we’re here for it.

Read more from Glamour UK Fashion Director at large Alex Fullerton here or follow her on Instagram @alexandrafullerton