I golfed at one of the world’s best courses – US tourists flock to the bliss venue

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FOR a moment I wondered why Granpaw Broon was staring out over this idyllic corner of the furthest-flung corner of Ireland.

Then I read the sign informing me this was a statue of Old Tom Morris — and I was standing on a piece of golfing history.

Rosapenna Golf Club County Donegal was a pleasure to play

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Rosapenna Golf Club County Donegal was a pleasure to playCredit: Alamy
John does a good impersonation of Old Tom Morris

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John does a good impersonation of Old Tom Morris

The monument near Downings, County Donegal, pays tribute to the legendary Scot who won four of the first eight Open Championships in the 1860s.

But the auld yin also designed some of the world’s greatest courses, including the 18-hole links layout I was about to tackle at Rosapenna Golf Resort.

And what a joy it was as I walked in the footsteps of the game’s greats down its lush green fairways towards greens enclosed by hillocks and dunes.

Alongside the equally splendid Sandy Hills course, the Old Tom Morris Links wends its way around the imposing Rosapenna clubhouse, where I enjoyed a coffee and toastie after my round.

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Old photos on the walls show images of two other golfing icons, Harry Vardon and James Braid, playing a round there in 1906.

Yet these days the biggest buzz in golfing circles concerns the latest addition to the Rosapenna stable — St Patrick’s Links.

Its 18 incredible holes were carved out of 300 acres of nearby farmland by the renowned US golf architect Tom Doak.

St Patrick's Links is not for the faint-hearted

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St Patrick’s Links is not for the faint-hearted
John on the fairways

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John on the fairways

And even though it only opened in the summer of 2021, it has already been listed as one of the world’s 100 greatest courses.

Playing at St Patrick’s was a privilege and thrill. Each hole is an adventure, not least because my wild slices and hooks took me to hidden corners that probably no other player had been to yet.

Some of the greens were the size of Clackmannanshire. And the scenery was simply stunning, as I gazed out towards distant islands and mountains.

Revelling in the blissful isolation, I felt like I was a thousand miles from nowhere.

Yet Donegal is relatively easy to get to if you want to indulge yourself in a feast of golfing excellence and a lot more besides.

After a short flight from Glasgow I picked up a hire car from City of Derry Airport. From there, it takes less than 10 minutes to cross the border – though you’d hardly know it.

The only hint was road signs changing from miles to km as we passed through the village of Muff on Lough Foyle’s banks.

GO:DONGEGAL

GETTING THERE: Loganair has flights to City of Derry from Glasgow with fares from £69.99pp one-way. See loganair.co.uk
STAYING THERE: Rooms at The Ballyliffin Hotel are from approx £106 a night, B&B. See ballyliffinhotel.com Two nights B&B at the Rosapenna Hotel and Golf Links, including two roudns of golf (1x Sandy Hills, 1x St Patrick’s Links), is from £569pp. See yourgolftravel.com
MORE INFO: Ballyliffin Golf Club: Glashedy Links green fees from approx £44 ballyliffingolfclub.com North West Golf Club: Green fees from approx £53 pp northwestgolfclub.com Portsalon Golf Club: Green fees from approx £53pp portsalongolfclub.ie and St Patrick’s Links at Rosapenna GC from approx £176pp rosapenna.ie

I drove up the Inishowen peninsula to the Ballyliffin club, perched facing the North Atlantic.

Soon I was taking on its challenging Glashedy Links, one of two championship courses in this immaculately tended complex which no less an expert than Rory McIlroy reckons every golfer “must play” on a trip to Ireland.

It was windy but that just added to the fun as I made mental calculations for every shot and tried to manouevre my way around the bunkers and water hazards.

I did plop two balls into a pond beside the 14th green as the stiff breeze increased to a gale that almost bowled me over. But who was counting?

Duffed shots or three-putts were quickly forgotten as I downed a pint in the clubhouse with my playing chums then one or two more in the nearby Ballyliffin Hotel.

Next day we headed down past Buncrana to the charming North West course, where 18 fascinating holes are sandwiched between the main road and Lough Swilly.

Talking of sandwiches, we later managed to wolf down a mountain of them along with restorative bowls of spicy broth provided by the wonderful clubhouse staff.

It was here my fellow hackers expressed their astonishment at the unfailing friendliness of absolutely everyone we met.

You can’t go anywhere in Donegal without locals offering a cheery greeting and checking how you are, where you’re from and wishing you good luck. None of it is false. These are just lovely people.

Among them is Brian McElhinney, the 2005 British Amateur Open champ who is now the golf professional at North West and who gave us the warmest of welcomes.

Our next destination lay just across the bay. But, in landscapes similar to Scotland’s western Highlands, that meant a long drive down one side of the lough before heading up the other.

We skirted the outskirts of Letterkenny, a small town that is a comparative teeming metropolis in Donegal terms.

Portsalon Golf course in Donegal is a stunner

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Portsalon Golf course in Donegal is a stunner

Then up the Fanad peninsula to Portsalon golf course, which sits beside a magnificent beach that makes the village a popular holiday resort in summer.

Another , it was considerably redesigned and improved at the turn of this century.

We thoroughly enjoyed all 18 holes on a tremendous links track that dates back to 1891 and boasts plenty of amazing views.

As always, there were smiles and cheery chat in the clubhouse where we enjoyed snacks and brews before returning to the Rosapenna Hotel.

A true five-star venue, it boasts 62 luxury bedroom suites and the top-class Vardon Restaurant, where a host of charming staff attended to us for dinner.

Rooms have golf views at the Rosapenna hotel

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Rooms have golf views at the Rosapenna hotel
Vardon restaurant

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Vardon restaurant
Gorgeous food as well as great golf made this one trip to remember

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Gorgeous food as well as great golf made this one trip to remember

I wolfed down oak-smoked salmon with lemon crème fraiche, followed by rack of Donegal Highland lamb with rosemary and red wine jus and orange mousse for sweet.

Then off to the adjoining bar to swap banter with American visitors who are now flocking to this golfing haven.

But even if you’ve never picked up a club there is plenty to see and do in Donegal.

I headed south towards the county’s standout physical feature, Mount Errigal.

Close to the slopes of the 2,464ft peak are unforgettable views over Dunlewey Lough and the enchanting Poisoned Glen.

A couple of miles down the road is Crolly Distillery. Here, Croithli Whiskey is created through a double-distillation process in huge pot stills before being left to mature in three different types of wooden casks.

John tries some Irish water of life

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John tries some Irish water of life

I know all this because Glasgow-born expert Thomas McIntyre gave me a guided tour followed by a generous sampling of the produce – after I’d handed the car keys to my golfing chum. A dram smart move.

Later I lapped up seafood chowder and steak pie in the Downings Hotel near Rosapenna, washed down with more pints and good craic, Donegal’s unbeatable recipe for happiness and contentment.

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So do yourself a favour and head there if you love golf — or just love life.

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