Imli Sarai, in Hyderabad serves Italian speciality dishes

The outside seating at Imli Sarai

Sarai means a traveller’s lodge, a place to slow down and catch a breath. When Zain Rahimtula and his wife Rama Rahimtula wanted to start a restaurant, they wanted to offer an ambience that spells calm. Everyone in their home and friends would always head to sit under the shade of two old tamarind trees on their property. Hence, they decided their restaurant would be under the trees and it would be called Imli Sarai.

Rightly so, Imli Sarai at Ashiana Function Hall in Banjara Hills is able to get its diners’ attention right from the word go. The open-air seating arrangement is like lounging on someone’s lawn. It’s simple with cushioned wrought iron chairs and tables in white with garden umbrellas for shade. Upon seeing the cover the tamarind trees provide, most diners do not even bother checking out the indoor seating. 

The grill chicken

Zain is a trained chef who was sure he would serve what he is best trained at–modern European and Indian food in a bistro setting. Imli Sarai is his first project as a restaurateur. The menu curated by Zain is simple. It mostly lists Italian food. Entree options are limited. No finger foods, no fried stuff. The option is between a kale salad with chickpeas, crumbled feta and toasted seeds with a tahini lemon dressing. The other option is a Nicoise-style composed salad with a topping of: classic tuna, duck confit and avocado fan. 

Zain did his Bachelors Degree in Development Studies and joined Swaraj University, after which he developed an interest in cuisine and ecology along with development/social issues. “My main interest is in cuisine and its import vis a vis terroir- the local culture and ecology. How can we invent and encourage a cuisine that supports the earth and the people/communities living in various ecologies? What is the cuisine of the future- one that is balanced, sustainable and delicious?” 

Kale salad, chickpeas, feta salad

Having trained and worked with Chef Ritu Dalmia, Zain is particular about how the food at his restaurant is accepted by diners. His staff explains diners’ selection before proceeding to place an order. 

The main course selection at the restaurant is well thought out and isn’t a collection of dishes from all sorts of cuisines. It is a choice between duck, lamb, sea fish and lamb cheeseburger. Vegetarians have the option to choose between fettuccine pasta, black bean and feta burger and a choice of pizza. 

Four cheese pizza

There is a pasta section as well. 

After having the nicoise style salad, I opted for the crispy duck breast with potato salad and braised lamb shanks. Zain suggested the four-cheese pizza be tried.

The salad was like a meal especially because I opted for a topping of duck confit. Again it is not a hurried bowl of green with a few cherry tomatoes thrown in. I went for another round of duck with the main course simply because it came with a potato salad. The food here is not meant for those who love biryani and spicy curriesl. Nor is it a place to think about kebabs and fish fry.

Imli Sarai is a haven for those who love to be midst of nature. When it comes to food, it is strictly for diners whose palate is used to European flavours. Of the three desserts on the menu, I had the Tarte Tatin: caramelised apple tart with vanilla sauce.