In the mood for mapo tofu: The top 18 spots to try this tongue-numbing Sichuan dish

Tofu as an ingredient often takes on the characteristics of whatever sauce or preparation is being used to dress it. In the case of mapo tofu, those soft, placid blocks of tofu guard a scorching secret: blazing heat and a tongue-tingling numbness imparted by Sichuan peppercorn.

The numbness, while maybe puzzling to the uninitiated, acts almost like a trail guide, pushing you further and further into the dish. In a way, it makes the spiciness more tolerable.

Mapo tofu was created in the 19th century by a woman known as Chen Ma Po (she was nicknamed “Ma Po” because of the mazi, or pockmarks, on her face). The dish was very much a creation for the working class and local laborers — mapo tofu wasn’t a highfalutin dish for the emperor and his lackeys.

One of my favorite dishes, mapo tofu ticks nearly every box for me. It is both provocative and numbing; salty and a little sweet; hearty and delicate; it’s got a fermented earthiness and also a sleek oiliness.

This list is meant as a place to begin exploring. Most of the time, you’re going to want to go to the San Gabriel Valley, but that’s not always possible. Some of the places I’ve included are in other neighborhoods, like in the San Fernando Valley. I’ve graded on a little bit of a curve. I’m fine with that, and I hope you are too.

Spice and numbness ratings are on a scale of 1 to 5, 5 being the high end. Because my ultimate goal is to get more people eating mapo tofu, you might also want to read my piece on Sichuan chef Yu Bo’s wonderful mapo tofu recipe. We are sliding into hot tofu summer. Get ready.