‘Internal layers’ are the hairdressing secret to instant textured, bouncy hair with tonnes of movement

We all know that layers can make or break a hair cut. Add too many layers or cut them too short and, all of a sudden, you look like you belong in an ’80s rock band next to Rod Steward. Too few, however, and your hairstyle can feel bottom heavy, drab and limp. 

Layers truly are a fine art, and even the most experienced hair pro can struggle to create the perfect balance, which might be why everyone is going crazy for the ‘internal layers’ styling technique that guarantees instant texture and bounce, with zero risk of an accidental mullet. 

“Traditional layers create volume, especially in the crown, but internal layers reduce weight in the lengths and add texture but without creating any bulk,” explains Yuki, hair designer and owner of Gavert Atelier Salon.

According to Yuki, internal layers can be created using a combination of a slide cut and a point cut. The slide cut is when a hairdresser slides scissors along the hair while opening and closing to give a softer edge. A point cut, on the other hand, is when the hairdresser cuts into the ends of hair from a vertical angle to break up any blunt lines. 

“Using these techniques helps to remove the weight of the hair, creating more space between each section to generate more movement,” he says. “First, I feel the hair and look for parts of the overall style that are heavier to identify which areas to focus on. Then I will use the slide and blunt cut on the sections underneath the surface layer of hair.”

Perfect for anyone with thick hair, or for those who don’t want the choppy, bed-head finish of visible layers, internal layers can be totally invisible to the naked eye (hair might even appear to be one length), yet they are still able to create sultry movement and subtle texture.

After a year of bold, statement layering, including styles like the wolf cut and even a brief return of the mullet, it’s not surprising that we’re seeing a return to a more subtle layering look. “So many of my clients are asking for a more effortless style while is easy to maintain at home,” says Yuki. 

While internal layers may not be as noticeable as traditional layers, that doesn’t mean they are any less effective at switching up your style. Just check out this before and after transformation by hair stylist Sal Salcedo. Before, hair was long and limp, and by adding internal layers Sal managed to retain the length but create boundless texture and movement. 

Plus, because internal layers create the ultimate crafted canvas, they make the perfect springboard to add a wispy fringe or a fun hair accessory.